Studillac continued...

PROSTOCKTOM said:
Because of the rotation of the crank you want the suction port on the drivers side.

The oil is already heading that way, so that's the best place for it and why dry sump pumps are usually mounted on the drivers side.

Tom

That might be correct if he only has a hole in the side of his pan
On wet sump that would be a horrible idea !!

From memory it is a tube that goes to into a pickup box in the middle
of the sump .

It does look to be a bit far foward :twocents:
 
I've finally got to a point where I can spend some time on the Studebaker again. Just a few days here and there but it feels good.
The original Studillac chassis seems to be in good shape so plans are to re-use as much as possible. I stripped it down and have
been slowly making repairs and changes, running thru mig wore and cut-off and grinder wheels as I go. I'll add a few post with
pics to catch everyone up to date. I'm slow and my work schedule is brutal so as usual it will be a long drawn out ordeal. I've just
about got the chassis ready to be removed from the blue car, so maybe I can get it free and start the mini tub and trunk floor soon.
Those that followed the first Studillac may remember all the work performed in an open carport on a creeper. Well I've got a 2-post
lift this go round in a nice enclosed shop and even have an air compressor! It's a lot more fun let me tell ya!
 
Wider tires! The original car had 285-60-16s on 9.5" wide wheels. This size bacame obsolete so I'm taking the opportunity to go with a larger
and more common wheel and tire size. I bought a set of 20x11 Mobsteel wheels and have 315-30-20s mounted on them. They are working out
great so far, just heavy. They should look good on the car. I've narrowed the rails behind the axle where they taper in and have more clearance
than before! A 2" mini tub in the trunk is all I need to make it them work. I'm also going to swap the trunk floor from the first car just so the
tank mount etc will already be taken care of. The trunk floor of the blue car has some rust anyway. The pics below show before and after rail mods.
 

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Here's the trunk floor removed from teh Studillac. And a test fit pic with the 315s! Plenty of clearance and 1/4" narrower sidewall to sidewall than the 285s.
And a side shot showing the Studebaker poverty caps with trim rings that will be used. These tires are just a little shorter, but not much. A 345 may fit...

I'm trying to get brave enough to cut the wheel tubs and do the trunk swap. I think that will be the hardest part of the project for me. I picked up a rotisserie
for $400 that might help but I'm hesitant to put the flimsy Studebaker on it with the trunk and wheeltubs cut apart. Not much left of the original car now.
 

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LOL!! I've got a case of "tire size envy." Dang, but those are Bodacious looking tires: and I love those wheels! What are those center caps from? When you have a chance I'd love to see more pictures of the wheels.

Best,

bro. d
 
nice Dwayne, like the wheels too. I was looking into a set of Billet Rally's from place called Circle Racing....almost $400 each...the Mobsteel look very similar and their site showing around $280 each? guessing that's just the wheel and then the trim rings and center cap are extra
glad to see you are back at it.
 
Andy:
My billed wheels were from circle racing in fresno, ca. Hi quality work, top dollar requested but slower than shit. Also has trouble telling the truth. They actually told me they shipped my wheels to me on two separate occasions and they were returned because I wasn't home. They couldn't give me a tracking number, though. Mind you they are 180 miles south of me. I went in person to order, with cash. I have business in Fresno 3 times a year, so I would show up unexpectedly and was told they had just shipped them, the first time I walked in. The other time they blamed the polishers. Finally they were delivered with no notice. Last time I deal with them, hope I don't need another one for a match.
ciao,
mario
 
Darius,

I didn't take any pics before I had the tires mounted. Mobsteel has the trim rings. The whole set with trim rings and clips installed for hub caps were about $1500 shipped.
18x8 with 245s for the fronts and 20x11 with 315s for the rears. I would have gotten a narrower front wheel but these were the narrowest 18 available. I may have to roll the
fender a little because I maxed out the back spacing also and its a little wider than the 15x6s I was running before. I got lucky on the hub caps. They are a NOS set that was
in the trunk of the blue car when purchased. They look exactly like the full 53 hub cab except in poeverty cap size. I dropped them off for a professional polish on the way to
work. They are for 53-55 Studebaker cars. It may be worth noting that these wheels are heavy! Like really heavy!!!
 

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Thanks for the info, both Mario and Dwayne. I'm looking for a set for my 71 c10, which is same 5 on 5 as the caddy. I like the subdued steel wheel look, but like the modern rubber and diameter. Thinking of 18x8 all around or 18x8 front and 18x10 for the rear. I'm sure they are heavy compared to aluminum...
That's good to know about Circle racing....lots of the truck guys on 67-72chevytrucks forum seem to recommend them...but no real feedback after
 
I've just about lived offshore for the last 6 months but finally got a little shop time in the last part of January. I managed to get the body off of the frame and remove some of the trunk floor. Originaly I was going to modify the stock tubs but decided on a kit from Chris Alstons Chassisworks. About 2.75" was added to each side. One of the tubs was completed but ran out of time before I could get the second. It's not perfect but it should work. A little bed liner over it will make it look even better!

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I really like the rounded edge of these tubs over the more conventional Pittsburgh seam.
 
Dwayne,

I chuckled when I saw these pictures of your new Studebaker. They made me speculate at how many thousands of gallons of that blue paint Studebaker must have bought! That is the same color on my 1950 and I have seen it on so many other Studes that it seems to have been the staple, or 'go to,' for thousands of cars.

The floor undercoat/bed liner in the back seat area and that used in the trunk is also very familiar.

If that building is your new pole barn, you have done very well! Kudos on that lift - and on the Stude truck. What's up with it?

Best,

d
 
Thanks d,

Yes that is the new pole barn. The lift is a great tool that I am using often. I told my Mom if I could time travel I would go back in time to buy my Dad a lift back in the day! Dad has kinda handed me the keys to the black truck. He bought it several years ago and daily drove it for a while. We took out the big six and put in a 259 Stude V8 with an S-10 5-speed tranny. Its also got AC so it was a nice driver. Its got brake and rear axle issues now and needs synchros in the trans. Plans are to install a 9 inch rear and am looking at building a narrowed Crown Vic front suspension.

That rubberized undercoating is serious! I think they would have been better off to spray it under the car instead of on the inside. Everyone thinks I'm nuts to want to leave the patina. It's not that I would't like it painted but it just adds so much time and expense. One option I thought about is to paint it maybe just a little darker shade of suede blue or maybe a tan color just too look semi authentic. But some of my friends say it has to be black again...

We are coming up on 4 years since the tornado! Everytime I walk into that building or work on the car I can't help but think what if...

Dwayne
 
Hey Dwayne,

Glad to see your progressing forward with version II. I can't believe it's already been 4 years since the tornado hit you. Knowing you the second go around will be even better than the first car was.
I have been really busy for several years, but hope to finally start spending a little time on my projects as well.

Tom
 
Hey Dwayne,

Glad to see your progressing forward with version II. I can't believe it's already been 4 years since the tornado hit you. Knowing you the second go around will be even better than the first car was.
I have been really busy for several years, but hope to finally start spending a little time on my projects as well.

Tom
Hey Tom. Glad to see ya back.
Dwayne your pole barn looks nothing like the pole barns around here. Your is MUCHO better.
Ones around here very breezy.
 
Been home a few days and I'm making progress on the other wheel tub. I didn't take any pics but I actually put the old frame under the car to check body mounts. I had to work on six different body mounts but got all of that sorted. Today I couldn't resist uncovering the engine and sitting it and the T56 into the frame. The Titan oil pump clears everything just right! If only JW had put the pan suction port in a usable place... Still looking to move the engine back some which will only help rack clearance. The headers are hitting the flywheel housing but I had to trim the old one in the same places so no big deal. Maybe I will be able to raise the rack to a spot that will allow normal tie rods to be used and eliminate the bump-steer kit I've been running. Not sure if I will slice up the trans xmbr to use the same frame mounts or make new mounts farther back and not modify the xmbr. I about wore myself out back and forth digging thru boxes and buckets trying to find the bolts and mounts! Leaving in the morning to make a run to Arizona to pick up rust/body work free front fenders!
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What is the size difference between the Titan and a stock pump / filter?
 
I was running a 425 pump that angles the filter forward so hard to tell compared to the 500 pump. The Titan is larger everywhere but may be shorter than the stock pump with filter? It is clockable, but will need paths for hoses. When I get back will hold up the 425 pump to compare.
 
Dwayne,

I like this paint as much as I dislike rubber undercoating [much]. It hides many a sin. It looks much like the orange peel powder look coating that's popular. You can roll it on using little foam rollers. It blends in well and can be touched up later with fairly good results. Thinning seems to increase the texture effect. I haven't tried it with hardener, but I plan to.
http://www.paint-colors.net/store/home.php?cat=30

I also like the original POR-15. Two coats minimum, light 1st coat, as it's runny. The 1st coat will look like sh*it, the 2nd will cover. It also flows out VERY well if rolled or brushed on. 30 minutes later the brush or roller marks are gone. Apply 2nd coat just after 1st coat doesn't finger print, but still grabs a finger lightly rubbed on it. It can be scuffed later for a top coat, or top coated right away.

Dave
 
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