Headers

I had a set of those a couple years ago, and was plenty pleased with them. I didn't take the measurements you're asking about, but yes, the flanges were plenty thick, plenty flat and sealed just fine. Actually, I was quite impressed with the quality of them, especially given the cost. I used them on a run stand, then temporarily on a boat while some were being built, and then sold them for just about what I paid for them. He was nearly happy as I was.

I can't tell you specifically which ones I got (I think I paid 108 w/shipping), but if they are all alike and they look like they are, I would not let the price stop you if a pair of block huggers is what you need.
 
That's what I needed to know. You had the stainless ones? I would rather have some long tube headers, but there doesn't seem to be anything on the market.
 
You can always whack the collectors off and slip something over the tubes, held with a tab on each and a bit of silicone to seal up.
The silicone will hold up to normal and 'spirited' street driving.
 
8ad-f85 said:
You can always whack the collectors off and slip something over the tubes, held with a tab on each and a bit of silicone to seal up.
The silicone will hold up to normal and 'spirited' street driving.
Click to expand...

What the collectors of what headers exactly?
 
Are you looking for pn's or something?
There isn't likely going to be an OOTB inexpensive easy solution or the full length headers wouldn't cost so much.
I often chop shorties to slip over the next size pipe's, but I make mine as I'm rarely working with the original vehicle.

If you are into some minor fab work, this could be inspiring...

SCH-SO73546_ml.jpg
 
Slip next size over.

headers.jpg


MarksHeaders.JPG


url


I use an overlapping tab to eliminate that centerlink. 2 will hold for a street car just fine, on opposite sides.

If the center dump is in a friendly location to your chassis, there could be quite a few ways to help this happen.
That Schoenfeld collector comes in many different configurations and I've seen people use Nascar take off headers for Olds applications, just as an idea.
 
CIMG0092_Small_.JPG


The above posts image didn't load.
I prefer the side by side tab (in the middle)
 
I just bought a set of the steel Patriot block huggers, The flange was not even close to fitting. Only one bolt per side fit, Sent them back and the second set was exactly the same.

I was thinking the stainless ones were the same, Now that I hear others had luck with those I will have to give them a try.
 
Mullettruck said:
I just bought a set of the steel Patriot block huggers, The flange was not even close to fitting. Only one bolt per side fit, Sent them back and the second set was exactly the same.

I was thinking the stainless ones were the same, Now that I hear others had luck with those I will have to give them a try.
Click to expand...

Of course block huggers. IS ANYONE EVER gonna make
LONG TUBE HEADERS !!
 
This is what I did which I'm sure is not "perfect", but is effectively 32 inch long tube headers.
Greg Surfas
 

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Those look great!
Keeping a nice small collector diameter helps maintain the torque you supposedly lose when you go too big too close to the head, and at the same time simplifies trying to snake 4 more tubes around the lower chassis (to the OP).
 
If I use those ebay block huggers what sizes pipes should I use for low rpm torque with a stock motor?

Greg,

Was that a matched set? It looks like one is a shorty and the other longer. Like a mid length.
 
2.5" pipes should be fine.
No need to math out anything like this.
 
The headers were purchased from MTS. They are the full size RWD cadilac headers. They are within an inch of being equal length from the center cylinders to the cut-out.
Greg Surfas
 
you can buy flanges from Paul at MTS. And you can buy tubing anywhere.
 
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