Headers

Is there still an Ebay listing for Caddy flanges for about $55/pr.?
Hotrods to hell rings a bell.
 
E-bay mild steel: HellsGateHotRods :D
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Big-Block-C...m41bddb17de:m:mC_IUiadGzr7bOceE-jFUiQ&vxp=mtr
E-bay stainless:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/304-Stainle...ash=item23704ea3b2:g:8P0AAOSwmmxW1wTA&vxp=mtr
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Headers by ED:

Just a heads up for whoever might order flanges from ED.
There are typographical errors in the part numbers for our engines.

The part numbers for both bare and finished flanges with 1 3/4" tubes
are replicated and are the same for 1 7/8 and 2" tubes.

Something you should definitely double check/confirm when you order them.
 
Yendor said:
E-bay mild steel: HellsGateHotRods :D
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Big-Block-C...m41bddb17de:m:mC_IUiadGzr7bOceE-jFUiQ&vxp=mtr
E-bay stainless:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/304-Stainle...ash=item23704ea3b2:g:8P0AAOSwmmxW1wTA&vxp=mtr
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Headers by ED:

Just a heads up for whoever might order flanges from ED.
There are typographical errors in the part numbers for our engines.

The part numbers for both bare and finished flanges with 1 3/4" tubes
are replicated and are the same for 1 7/8 and 2" tubes.

Something you should definitely double check/confirm when you order them.


What's the exhaust sound/tone difference between the 1 3/4", 1 7/8", and 2"? If there is any?
 
Depends more on cam timing if open pipes.
 
CaddyCrosley said:
The Mad Cadder said:
CaddyCrosley said:
Does anyone make zoomies or lake headers for 500s? Or even a kit for either of those?

Sanderson makes lake style and zoomies

:yikes: :yikes: :yikes: those are a liiiiiiiiitttle out of my price range lol

Why do this if it's gonna be that big a deal to buy parts you know you need ....

As for the flanges .. beware some just aint made right .. there is a right way and a wrong way to make the openings..
I would get ones with stub tubes.. It will make things much easier..By the time you end up piecing those together and have them
coated or coat them yourself youll end up with a lot of money and time in them anyway

BTW
With hot rodding .... Or in general really.. If its too cheap its probably not worth it :twocents:
 
[quote="The Mad Cadder"/]
Why do this if it's gonna be that big a deal to buy parts you know you need ....

As for the flanges .. beware some just aint made right .. there is a right way and a wrong way to make the openings..
I would get ones with stub tubes.. It will make things much easier..By the time you end up piecing those together and have them
coated or coat them yourself youll end up with a lot of money and time in them anyway

BTW
With hot rodding .... Or in general really.. If its too cheap its probably not worth it :twocents:[/quote]

I don't necessarily need lake headers, I can make other exhaust systems work. I'm a broke college kid. It's not that I don't have the money... It's just that I have massive tuition payments. I just wanna build a hot rod... :weeping:

I'll keep that in mind about the flanges. If I can get the tubing for fairly cheap, I'm a decent welder - been doing it since I was thirteen, MIG and stick - and can fabricate my own. Then just clean up the welds, couple rattle cans of high temp black, and heat wrap. I figured I'd either do that, or adapt BBC or BBF headers, or just use the block huggers.
 
You are where I once was.. not that long ago.. my first cad motor threw a rod.

I ran my truck to a 12.50 quarter mile with stock exhaust manifolds... they aint so bad.

Cant wait to see what it does with the headers!!!!
 
So, what is the consensus on how much performance/power is actually added with headers on these engines ? ???
 
Ready for a long, vague but precise answer?
It matters more what the whole package looks like.
As with any engine it's going to depend on what the tube size/lengths are, the cam timing and overlap, and the intended power level and the rpm range looked at.
Common sense applies, headers or manifolds dumping into dual 1-7/8 pipes are choked no matter what on 500 inches.
Manifolds into good exhaust on a mild engine will see the most improvements at the extreme ends of the powerband and minimal in the middle.
With more performance this exaggerates some, with the beginning and the end being more extreme.
Most of the time, seeing a +50 or +100hp gain is due to when it's waking up earlier or hanging on longer, kind of a phenomenon of the curve.

While it's easy to math out where in the rpm range they are more effective, it's difficult to accurately predict by how much they will increase. It's quicker to test on the engine, which isn't quick.
They aren't just exhausting a cylinder, they can actually pull on the intake sooner in the cycle...which can make it an important part of the puzzle.
While difficult to have a relevant comparison by replacing a header with a manifold on a well sorted combo, the header could either look really good or bad the same as the wrong intake.
Was that intake worth 100hp? No, just the wrong one for that combo.

Even more difficult to measure on the typical hot rod type dyno is the effect on part throttle or mileage.
I personally see very large increases at part throttle with Cadillacs, but they are fairly well sorted out.
 
CanadianC10 said:
You are where I once was.. not that long ago.. my first cad motor threw a rod.

I ran my truck to a 12.50 quarter mile with stock exhaust manifolds... they aint so bad.

Cant wait to see what it does with the headers!!!!

The T-bird ran low 12's with the stock manafolds, in order to get to 11's I had to make headers. Best so far was 11.45 with headers.
 
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