dave brode
Well-Known Member
I would mount trans to crossmember first. Even if you will not use it, I would attempt to center the caddy fan in the stock camaro shroud while fashioning mounts. Level engine side to side.
Since even if your engine will go back a bit, it looks to be quite a distance from frame x-member to engine mount location. I would use the older rwd studed mounts. I believe that they would be simpler to use compared to the later style. Studded mounts shown here; viewtopic.php?f=4&t=14361
Normally, I would use a drilled hole in one side, and a slot on the other [set one mount's stud down on it's hole, and drop the other side through slot on other side]. Since bay clearance will be tight, I might use a slot on both. The mounts have a "nub" on the mounting surface that will require another drilled hole on said plates. Those nubs will do the locating. Make the holes for the "nubs" 1/8" larger than the nubs.
I would start by cutting simple plate fitted to the rubber mounts, 3/8" plate. Gusseted "heavy" tubing/pipe/etc from the plate back on an angle to another 3/8" plate on the frame. I would make the frame end bolt in too, since this would allow removing the "frame mount" assy's. Depending on how stiff the frame is, you may want to fashion plates to go under the frame too, since the mounts will have a good bit of leverage.
If you don't need a rubber mount, you can burn a set of stock mounts [remove the rubber] and use the engine side bracket to bolt to the engine, and weld to that.
Dave
p.s. - I would move it back as far as possible. Moving the weight of the engine/trand back even 1" will help on vehicle front to rear weight bias.
Since even if your engine will go back a bit, it looks to be quite a distance from frame x-member to engine mount location. I would use the older rwd studed mounts. I believe that they would be simpler to use compared to the later style. Studded mounts shown here; viewtopic.php?f=4&t=14361
Normally, I would use a drilled hole in one side, and a slot on the other [set one mount's stud down on it's hole, and drop the other side through slot on other side]. Since bay clearance will be tight, I might use a slot on both. The mounts have a "nub" on the mounting surface that will require another drilled hole on said plates. Those nubs will do the locating. Make the holes for the "nubs" 1/8" larger than the nubs.
I would start by cutting simple plate fitted to the rubber mounts, 3/8" plate. Gusseted "heavy" tubing/pipe/etc from the plate back on an angle to another 3/8" plate on the frame. I would make the frame end bolt in too, since this would allow removing the "frame mount" assy's. Depending on how stiff the frame is, you may want to fashion plates to go under the frame too, since the mounts will have a good bit of leverage.
If you don't need a rubber mount, you can burn a set of stock mounts [remove the rubber] and use the engine side bracket to bolt to the engine, and weld to that.
Dave
p.s. - I would move it back as far as possible. Moving the weight of the engine/trand back even 1" will help on vehicle front to rear weight bias.
