Header Wrap?

Don

Don

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Howdy All,

Been working on getting Cooke's Headers into the Regal, and were close. By close I mean Damn Close. Had to use a saw's all to cut the frame and trim part of the a-arm,heat, beat and bang some and raise/lower the engine too many times to count. Before I bolt them up and start this new build up I'm thinking how Damn Close those tubes are to the starter, brake lines, and the plastic fender wells. I do not want to remove the inner fender wells if possible and I know it would be a good idea to insulate the starter from the heat. Have any of you used header wrap with any success? I was going to give them a fresh coat of header paint, but that may only make them look better and not reduce the heat too much. Looking for advice on what to do and whats been done. I also have a real tight fit getting the hood to close with an air cleanerhaving to be Very Low Profile it anyone has a suggestion there as well. I have started to look for a Cowl Hood, but do not want too tall of a Cowl. I found a 21/2" hood last night and I love the Grand National Hoods, but don't know if I would gain any clearance there. With the Headers under the stock hood I can almost feel the heat generater by the headers and I know the Caddy would love to get some cooler air.

Thanks In Advance for any Help

Don
 
ceramic coat the headers. About $150 from a local guy here, Minneapolis area
George
 
Don,
  I've seen "header-wrap" cause premature rust on uncoated headers. I had no problem with starter issues; but I used a CSR mini starter and there's aton of clearance with it.
Quit being a tight wad and spring for a glass' hood with a 6" cowl. It'll give it that "Outlaw 10.5" look to go with those new Potter heads your gonna wind up with anyway.LOL.
                                                                                          Best of luck,
                                                                                          Cooke
 
Don,

Techline Coatings did my turbo manifolds and turbine housings for 1/2 what JetHot wanted. Look good.
Dave
 
Ok, I'm a CSOB and Chicken Shit when it comes to things I have no experience with. Should I just go ahead and spray them and forget it, or try to get them coated. The starter has very little clearance so I feel I need to do something there. Cooke, If you still have that starter I would be glad to see if it still works. You have my address, so send it on. May have to get a glass hood real soon. I'm not quite ready to fire it up and see what I've got.

Thanks All

Don
 
I had my headers ceramic coated inside and out.  I think it was money well spent.  It really helps keep heat out of the engine bay and keeps the headers from rusting out.  Also their is aftermarket fiberglass GN hoods available and are reasonably priced from the GN venders.  They would provide extra clearence, look great, and drop weight.
 
Don,

Your mileage may vary, but;

A buddy of mine painted his headers with Eastwood's s/s paint. Glass beaded them, brushed three coats on with a 50 cent foam brush. Day drying between coats, and scuffed each coat with green scuffy pad. 4 years later, they still look great.
Dave


link=topic=1104.msg11234#msg11234 date=1112655851]
Ok, I'm a CSOB and Chicken Shit when it comes to things I have no experience with. Should I just go ahead and spray them and forget it, or try to get them coated. The starter has very little clearance so I feel I need to do something there. Cooke, If you still have that starter I would be glad to see if it still works. You have my address, so send it on. May have to get a glass hood real soon. I'm not quite ready to fire it up and see what I've got.

Thanks All

Don
 
Don,
I'm keeping the starter because it will also fit mynew brand X project motor. If you don't have alot of compression though, you might get away with running a "Summit" or "Jeg's" brand starter that's configured like mine and probably alot cheaper than mine. I think mine was a little over $200.00. Didn'y even know they would work until Maddog mentioned it on the board. Anyway; they're sure nice because they're adjustable and can turn  the solenoid anyway you want it and the motor itself is a whole lot smaller and lighter.(nice while your on your back under the car, trying to hold it up in place and start the nut onto the stud).
Your probably kind of in a rush; but the ceramic coating is the final word on the hedders. I was really disappointed when mine started showing signs of rust coming through. I used VHT brand of coating called "flat-aluminum". I guess you could always "scotch-bright" them down a little bit; and re-shoot them with it again. It would probably last alot longer if I hadn't  been tearing mine apart  all the time and scratching them up and stuff like that.
 
If using wrap for a street car with the possibility of seeing wet roads, like Cooke said, it will retain moisture and rot usually at the collecter/pipes.
  If for a strip app., it will last for years without problems.
I ran it for awhile years ago....hated checking/changing plugs. The glass particles itched, and I always managed to cut my fingers on the retaining straps  :cursing:.


Later, LUXLX
 
I don't have the name brand at the moment but their is a mini starter that fits the Cad and sells for $125. 
 
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