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Good afternoon,
My name is John and I am a fairly new member to the board. I joined a short while ago but have not posted as yet, although I have followed things for quite awhile before that. I am getting ready to start a new project and will be looking for advice regarding the big block Cadillac motor.

My project is a 1936 Dodge Rumble Seat Coupe. Factory curb weight was about 2860 lbs. This will be a full fender street rod street rod with a '74, 500 Caddie motor and a Muncie HD 4 speed and probably an 8.8 inch Ford rear differential. I know the pros and cons regarding the 4 speed but wish to try it anyway. The chassis will be a combination of S-10 in front and custom build from the firewall back. I have the original, undamaged frame, but have an aversion to cutting it up.

This is actually my first street rod attempt, but I have owned, built and modified numerous muscle cars since I was about 18, lo those many years ago. I have been and still am involved in British motorcycles as well.

To this point I have been gathering information and parts although I still need more of each. I am sure this board will continue to be helpful with advice and information. It is one of the better boards I have been involved with.

Enough for now,
John
 
Hey man, Happy New Year and welcome to the forum!

Your build sounds like it's going to be awesome; I for one am very excited to see it progress. I think you'll find everyone here to be very helpful regarding the problems you may encounter.

-Nick
 
Hello John,

Welcome to the forum and Happy New Year.

Your project sounds interesting. I doubt there are many Cadillacs out there running with a rumble seat in the rear. That low original weight means that even dead stock your major problem will be in getting the vehicle to hook up while driving around the street. Still, there is nothing wrong with "MORE POWER."

Best,

Darius
 
Welcome!
Sounds like a great project.
I think the low weight will greatly help the 4 speed to live.
People seem to relate only the input side of tranny's when talking strength.
I might be oversimplifying but 1/2 the weight might equal half the stress, not considering shock loads.
You might consider a co-driver to help you steer a 9 second potential, tire obliterating beast.
 
8ad-f85 said:
Welcome!
Sounds like a great project.
I think the low weight will greatly help the 4 speed to live.
People seem to relate only the input side of tranny's when talking strength.
I might be oversimplifying but 1/2 the weight might equal half the stress, not considering shock loads.
You might consider a co-driver to help you steer a 9 second potential, tire obliterating beast.[/quote]

"Let the church say, "amen." :yes: :yes: :yikes:

bro. d
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for the replies,

Yes, the light weight is quite a bit under what I am use to for anything I have previously owned. I am not sure what the original flat 6 weighed but I would bet it was not much under a 283/327. That being the case I will have to watch the right foot.

I have all of the original steel for the car, fenders bumpers, all of the original interior door and window trim, running boards, radiator, even three of the four seat springs. Most of it is in really nice shape. No motor or trans and the rear diff. is not original. Nothing has been cut of butchered either. This car was after the mid-year change and has the metal roof insert. With the changes I have in mind I think the weight will still come in at perhaps 3200 lbs.

I have a frame table already built for the chassis work and will soon be bringing in the S-10 frame to start the frame changes. A number of people locally have asked "Why an S-10 front frame section". Simple. All of the engineering is done for me. I have complete frame specs. so as to set up the front ride height etc. and Many Monte Carlo front end parts from the mid 80s onward are direct replacements but of heavier construction. Things like upper and lower A frames and springs for instance. Firewall back is to be built similar to the original perimeter frame but of box construction. I am going to try and remember to take lots of pictures.

All for now, John
 
John,

Just as a comparison my project started with a light weight original as well. My 1950 Studebaker came in at 2730 pounds.
Like you, I’m also using the Ford 8.8 rear but the IRS version plugged into an S10 frame:

Vehicle: 1950 Studebaker 4 Door Champion - original weight 2730 lbs
Frame: 1985 S-10 Standard Cab, long bed 4X4 - fully boxed, wheelbase modified
Transmission: GM 4L80E
Transfer Case: NV 3.08 gears - fully lockable on demand
NVG 149 AWD
Rear End: Thunder Bird SC Independent 8.8 with 3.08 gears
Front Diff: Stock S-10 7.25 with 3.08 gears

(viewtopic.php?f=3&t=16215&p=183469&hilit=weight+Studebaker#p183469).

Do you have pictures of your project?

Best,

d
 
Good evening Darius,

No pictures as yet, but I hope to take some as soon as I put something on the table. I have the frame table in place and the S-10 frame is just outside. It is a RWD extra cab with 120" wheelbase. My plans are to bring it inside and set it up to get the correct ride height and ground clearance. From there I will cut it and remove the front section and set aside the rest.

Next I will bring in the '36 frame, set it up on the table and adjust for center line, square and stance. Next I will brace the frame perimeter and this will provide the correct shape for building the balance of the frame. This will be .120 wall thickness.

I decided not to go with the independent 8.8 rear as they have a tendency toward bearing problems according to some sources.

This is going to be an interesting project. I have spent lots of time researching so many things I should have them all down pat. But of course I don't. There is still so much more to learn and then to attempt to put into action without flubbing things and having to re-do them.

Thanks for some of the info on your build. I have observed some of it previously as I read thru the archives.

Regards, John
 
I am in North Central Mass. about 10 miles from the NH border where it is trying to snow again.
 
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