Safty First! Then pull the trigger!
- Oct 14, 2017
- Reaction score
- Over here
- What vehicle(s) do you drive?
- 1964 Commercial, 1948 Austin, 58 Pan
This is now saved in my caddy engine file with a paper copy in my caddy engine binder.Absolutely. When we say "stretched" we are using it instead of the word "torqued". It is just a different, more accurate way to tighten a rod bolt properly. When a bolt is stretched to the correct dimension it is at its correct level of tension or "tightness".
Steps to do:
1`. Remove the old rod bolts and clean the holes of old oil/dirt and any burrs.
2. Install the new bolts, put the rod cap on, lube the threads and snug the nuts down enough to seat the bolt heads solidly in the rods. (maybe 30-40 # tq)
3. Loosen the nuts, then tighten again to "just snug" and install the stretch gauge.
4. Tighten the bolt until the stretch gauge just barely starts to move . Make note of the number on the gauge.
5. Continue tightening until the gauge shows the correct amount of bolt stretch.
6. The rods are ready to measure and hone to size.
7. Repeat this process when installing the rods in the engine. These rods will now be tightened this way any time they are used.
Here's ARP official instructions for the Cad rod bolts:
I posted a thread a while back. Maybe Darius can find it. He's very good at finding old posts for an old *&^$. Questions on aluminum rods girth. Will the block need tp be clearanced? Seems nobody here has experience with aluminum in the big Cad. Or on any other forum for that matter.