Verry cool intake setup.

48Austin

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Bro. smalltruckbigcid,

If that is you, silhouetted in your avatar, you've changed! Care to go out for some dinner, libation or whatever?

HWC
Sounds strange to me.
 

48Austin

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Nobody has given me an answer on aluminum rods yet.
 

Darius

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Nobody has given me an answer on aluminum rods yet.

Offer them "dinner, libation or whatever." It hasn't worked for me yet, but what the hell. :D

da HWC
 

PJ McCoy

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Absolutely. When we say "stretched" we are using it instead of the word "torqued". It is just a different, more accurate way to tighten a rod bolt properly. When a bolt is stretched to the correct dimension it is at its correct level of tension or "tightness".
Steps to do:
1`. Remove the old rod bolts and clean the holes of old oil/dirt and any burrs.
2. Install the new bolts, put the rod cap on, lube the threads and snug the nuts down enough to seat the bolt heads solidly in the rods. (maybe 30-40 # tq)
3. Loosen the nuts, then tighten again to "just snug" and install the stretch gauge.
4. Tighten the bolt until the stretch gauge just barely starts to move . Make note of the number on the gauge.
5. Continue tightening until the gauge shows the correct amount of bolt stretch.
6. The rods are ready to measure and hone to size.
7. Repeat this process when installing the rods in the engine. These rods will now be tightened this way any time they are used.

Terry

Here's ARP official instructions for the Cad rod bolts:

This is now saved in my caddy engine file with a paper copy in my caddy engine binder.
Thanks so much Terry!!
PJ
 

48Austin

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gordon

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Some how I missed it . What was your question on aluminum rods?
 

48Austin

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I posted a thread a while back. Maybe Darius can find it. He's very good at finding old posts for an old *&^$:p. Questions on aluminum rods girth. Will the block need tp be clearanced? Seems nobody here has experience with aluminum in the big Cad. Or on any other forum for that matter.
 

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I have never put aluminum rods in a big caddy. I have installed a boxcar load of them in Early and late hemi's , cast Iron and aluminum. As far as GM engines , I have been using aluminum rods in BBC's since 1974. The brands I have used include M/T , Childs& Albert, Brooks, BME, Venolia, GRP, and probably couple more that I forget. Only one person in my life that I have known to use Aluminum rods on the street. That was a 67' chevy impala with a 327 . This car was owned by Tony and Anne Tillman in central Fla. I believe they were installed in 1975. Anne Tillman used the impala as a daily driver and bracket raced it nearly every Sat night. About 1980 I was at the world finals in southern California and ran into Tony and Anne in the staging lanes. They had traveled out to California because Anne was the points leader in division2(South East) for her class. The car still had the same set of connecting rods in it. It is not supposed to be that way but that is what happed. All my engines were racing engines and almost exclusively Blown alcohol/nitro. I did not expect long life from them. Depending on the class of racing, (fast bracket classes such as S/G, S/C ,Top sportsman etc.) most users get a full season from them now maybe two(except the Nitro cars and Top alcohol class cars). Knowledge and the technology going into making them and checking them has really grown in the last twenty years. I check rod bolt stretch and any change in free length every time I take them out ( very very frequently) . There are certain thing we check for on the rods such as thread dimension changes using a precision threaded Go-No go gauge . There are other things that get watched closely also but you did not ask for a full dissertation on the history and use of Aluminum rods in American racing. I think I found the post with the original question and it appears that your concerned with and grinding of block for clearance . On a 500" Cad I would guess yes there will some required. 472 maybe some still but not as much. Only way to know is talk to the rod manufacturer of your choice and buy two rods sized for the Cad crank pin and length you desire and width. bolt it in to the empty block with pistons similar to what you will use and start checking. When I finally get around to building a blown Cad motor for my FED it will be based on the 472 stock crank and swing aluminum rods. I would call GRP or MGP, they will have more size options than BME as far as outside rod dimensions since they are billet and Bill Miller at BME is constrained by the already made forgings he has. That way the rod is no bigger than needed for the job at hand. My advice if you want it is to stick with a steel rod .
 

48Austin

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I'm not looking for RPM past 6's. Need strength for a blower. And I don.t trust china rods. But I do want to make the rotating mass lighter. Used Super rods in the late '70' early '80's in a "Poncho". Had to clearence the block. Winged the damn thing to 7g's. Oh yeah, almost forgot 60 over 428 running 12:1.
 

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benbr17624

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Just surfing the web and found this setup... Got to admit that it's very cool. Anyone here that did itb's?

Oh, And nothing to do with this, But stock rods won't live at 6k right?

Beautiful! really
 
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