Update what ive been working on

kzhurley

Active Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2011
Messages
387
Reaction score
177
Points
43
Location
Ohio
Was not able to pressure test today.. It's 13° here today (compared to 45° yesterday)..Out of kerosene and propane for heat lol.
 

2JvLo

Active Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2017
Messages
100
Reaction score
77
Points
28
Location
holland
What vehicle(s) do you drive?
66 Cdv 500
Verry cool project! Are you planning on running it in batch fire or fully sequential?
 

kzhurley

Active Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2011
Messages
387
Reaction score
177
Points
43
Location
Ohio
Thanks PJ....

2JvLo..
Batch fire. For a couple reasons...
A) simplicity

B) I'm running an ms2 which doesn't easily support v8 sequential

3) I donot have the equipment to be able to tune anything well enough to take advantage of sequential.
I only have 1 wideband o2 sensor and a butt dyno lol
 

Darius

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2004
Messages
4,274
Reaction score
727
Points
113
Thanks PJ....

2JvLo..
Batch fire. For a couple reasons...
A) simplicity

B) I'm running an ms2 which doesn't easily support v8 sequential

3) I donot have the equipment to be able to tune anything well enough to take advantage of sequential.
I only have 1 wideband o2 sensor and a butt dyno lol
Yeah, I invested in one of those butt dynos myself. It about a size 44 right now, but is expandable if the need were to arise!

bro. "just finished dinner" d
 

48Austin

Safty First! Then pull the trigger!
Joined
Oct 14, 2017
Messages
485
Reaction score
263
Points
63
Location
Over here
What vehicle(s) do you drive?
1964 Commercial, 1948 Austin, 58 Pan
I have a very narrow butt dyno.:)! BUTT as I was saying, an air intake temp. sensor mounted under the intake instead of the intake tube should give you a lot of info.
 

2JvLo

Active Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2017
Messages
100
Reaction score
77
Points
28
Location
holland
What vehicle(s) do you drive?
66 Cdv 500
Yeah, I invested in one of those butt dynos myself. It about a size 44 right now, but is expandable if the need were to arise!

bro. "just finished dinner" d
I've always wondered where this type off dyno's came from, And an expendable one seems like a must have! :laugh: Any cheap suppliers at the moment??

Kzhutley, Seems like you thought it thru. Looking forward for progress!
Where are you going to get your trigger signal from ?
 

kzhurley

Active Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2011
Messages
387
Reaction score
177
Points
43
Location
Ohio
Soon to be In process of fabbing up a 36-1 trigger wheel. I had a northStar ignition setup but going back to distributor for looks. So have a pretty good start for the reluctor.


Problem with the butt dyno is that it's portable and works anywhere.. Even in front of law enforcement which I suppose may get you into trouble. They give you a little slip that give you a mph and a $ amount you get to pay for thier services.. Couple of those and you could've used a chassis dyno.
 
Last edited:

48Austin

Safty First! Then pull the trigger!
Joined
Oct 14, 2017
Messages
485
Reaction score
263
Points
63
Location
Over here
What vehicle(s) do you drive?
1964 Commercial, 1948 Austin, 58 Pan
Already have a chassis dyno. Been with her for years. Just doesn't seem to hook up anymore:(:mad:. I think it's broken, maybe try a newer model:).
 

Darius

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2004
Messages
4,274
Reaction score
727
Points
113
Thanks for the props..... I've been trying to following your lead :) ..

The fuel rail I picked up on eBay in a 36 length and cut and drilled and welded the fittings on it and capped the ends. I just drilled the injector holes 3/8 and then drilled and reamed the o-ring .590 diameter hole. I believe the fuel rail id is 5/8, way more than I needed but it was very reasonably priced and it was good quality and easy to work with.

The intake side I made steel bungs using 3/4 .125 wall dom tube. Then reamed them to the correct id for the injector o-rings. Then beveled them at the correct angle. Then located and drilled the intake where I wanted them. And welded up. So far so good. Ive pressure tested it and no leaks..
My earlier question about who fabricated your fuel rails results from the need to have my own rails done. I'll probably go with the "store bought" tool to drill the injector holes (Ross Machine - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSNb9QKj568) but the question was what tool to use to make the o-ring bevels for the end fittings. What did you use - and what size? My line will be Dash-10 (5/8).

Thanks,

bro. d
 

kzhurley

Active Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2011
Messages
387
Reaction score
177
Points
43
Location
Ohio
My earlier question about who fabricated your fuel rails results from the need to have my own rails done. I'll probably go with the "store bought" tool to drill the injector holes (Ross Machine - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSNb9QKj568) but the question was what tool to use to make the o-ring bevels for the end fittings. What did you use - and what size? My line will be Dash-10 (5/8).

Thanks,

bro. d
Mine are fully welded.

The way I did mine were as follows...

Sawed to,length, and made plugs press in ends of rails and welded them in.

Located and drilled pilot holes(believe 3/8 maybe) then drilled and reamed to 14mm Mayne 5/16 deep and beveled injector holes,

Then milled a flat on each rail at tje correct angle I needed and bored holes into the side. Then used -8 female weld bungs that I turned down in lathe with a step to locate in the rails. Then welded those up.

Then I just have -8 bulkhead fittings without nuts so I can bring feed and return lines above intake..
The crossover line is just drilled and tapped 3/8 pipe thread and 90° fittings.



Hope that confuses everything lol
 

kzhurley

Active Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2011
Messages
387
Reaction score
177
Points
43
Location
Ohio
Already have a chassis dyno. Been with her for years. Just doesn't seem to hook up anymore:(:mad:. I think it's broken, maybe try a newer model:).
Careful though... I hear the newer models have some alot of issues that haven't been figured out yet..
 

48Austin

Safty First! Then pull the trigger!
Joined
Oct 14, 2017
Messages
485
Reaction score
263
Points
63
Location
Over here
What vehicle(s) do you drive?
1964 Commercial, 1948 Austin, 58 Pan

jwsunup

New Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2012
Messages
17
Reaction score
4
Points
3
Location
orange texas
What vehicle(s) do you drive?
24 model T roadster p/u with 500/ t350 jag irs
Some mockup pics finally lol. Need a few more coats of caddy blue on the intake yet but ran out of paint. Go figure. Eastwood no longer carries it I guess. Have to find something else and hope it matches the rest of the motor.

Still,need to make linkage and a wiring harness for it yet. And also need to,make some intake gaskets. Going to cut 2 sets of felpro material and sandwich the valley pan between them that way the valley pan will keep oil and such off the injectors.
 

jwsunup

New Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2012
Messages
17
Reaction score
4
Points
3
Location
orange texas
What vehicle(s) do you drive?
24 model T roadster p/u with 500/ t350 jag irs
This is the first one of my intakes I've seen anyone other than myself do anything with! Looking good! You seem to be talented enough to have built your own...Moved to Texas and and had a rough start but am ready to start building again. Built a single plane curved runner intake (High rise), mounted a turbo directly to carb inlet and made 2x4 draw thru intake for that...really tall but oughtta be fun in my 507 powered T bucket!
 

kzhurley

Active Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2011
Messages
387
Reaction score
177
Points
43
Location
Ohio
This is the first one of my intakes I've seen anyone other than myself do anything with! Looking good! You seem to be talented enough to have built your own...Moved to Texas and and had a rough start but am ready to start building again. Built a single plane curved runner intake (High rise), mounted a turbo directly to carb inlet and made 2x4 draw thru intake for that...really tall but oughtta be fun in my 507 powered T bucket!
Good to see you back up and running again.. I like the turbo idea youve got going.
The intake I got from you just ended up working out perfect with the factory 1956 2x4 cad air cleaner.. Height wise I have about 2" hood clearance.
 

kzhurley

Active Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2011
Messages
387
Reaction score
177
Points
43
Location
Ohio
Another update:

Got the valley pan and gaskets cut and bonded up. Installed intake and bolted down hopefully for the last time on this 500..

Throttle linkage took some figuring as I had to highly modify the original bellcrank system. This 500 has much less room head to firewall because of the opposite cylinder bank offset.

Next it's harness time. I've studied way too much on what plugs I need.. I'm using all GM sensors and such. I usually just go junkyarding and snip the plugs off what I need and solder them up for harness... Not this time. I wanted to do the harness without any breaks lol. Delphi metri-pack 150p is what most of them are. Very cheap new, but alot of variations to what they can be. Like once you figure out what plug you have, then you have to buy the right pins and seals for the gauge of wire your using. Also the crimping tool is needed. Good thing I only actually need like 5 plugs total.

Then finally I'll be moving onto the crank trigger and pickup. I have another 75 500 on a stand that I can use for mockup since there's no room in the car to work..
 

48Austin

Safty First! Then pull the trigger!
Joined
Oct 14, 2017
Messages
485
Reaction score
263
Points
63
Location
Over here
What vehicle(s) do you drive?
1964 Commercial, 1948 Austin, 58 Pan
Another update:

Got the valley pan and gaskets cut and bonded up. Installed intake and bolted down hopefully for the last time on this 500..

Throttle linkage took some figuring as I had to highly modify the original bellcrank system. This 500 has much less room head to firewall because of the opposite cylinder bank offset.

Next it's harness time. I've studied way too much on what plugs I need.. I'm using all GM sensors and such. I usually just go junkyarding and snip the plugs off what I need and solder them up for harness... Not this time. I wanted to do the harness without any breaks lol. Delphi metri-pack 150p is what most of them are. Very cheap new, but alot of variations to what they can be. Like once you figure out what plug you have, then you have to buy the right pins and seals for the gauge of wire your using. Also the crimping tool is needed. Good thing I only actually need like 5 plugs total.

Then finally I'll be moving onto the crank trigger and pickup. I have another 75 500 on a stand that I can use for mockup since there's no room in the car to work..
The connectors can be had by Tray maintenance. Don't now if they have a site. But I do know they have the connectors. Try and get them from the dealers:(. Good luck. This is a very good tool to crimp twin lock connectorshttps://www.ebay.com/itm/Buick-Wiring-Harness-Crimp-Connector-Wire-Terminals-Crimpers-Tool-nos-14-18AWG/301309236789
 

kzhurley

Active Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2011
Messages
387
Reaction score
177
Points
43
Location
Ohio
The connectors can be had by Tray maintenance. Don't now if they have a site. But I do know they have the connectors. Try and get them from the dealers:(. Good luck. This is a very good tool to crimp twin lock connectorshttps://www.ebay.com/itm/Buick-Wiring-Harness-Crimp-Connector-Wire-Terminals-Crimpers-Tool-nos-14-18AWG/301309236789
The tool i have looks just like that, except i paid 2x that lol..
I found through gmpartsdirect I can get them, but its hard to find them without a part number. A little searching they come up and I can then order them.
 

48Austin

Safty First! Then pull the trigger!
Joined
Oct 14, 2017
Messages
485
Reaction score
263
Points
63
Location
Over here
What vehicle(s) do you drive?
1964 Commercial, 1948 Austin, 58 Pan
Tray Maintenance used to have pretty pictures. I like pretty Pictures. The reason I know, is I do this stupid shit for a :sick::geek:o_O:cry:living. But now I think I'll just shoot myself.
 
Top