Showing you MY JUNK – Pictures Included!

5one9

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Maybe it should be 'bro. "I work in dog years" d.':p
 

Darius

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:rofl::rofl::laugh:

Too True!!

bro. "dog years," d

Though, I have managed to get out to the garage two of the last three days. Even got some work done - that is once I found where I had left everything, back when the sun came out and it was still warm outside.
 

5one9

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I wish I were close enough to help you. Keep plugging away.
 

48Austin

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DUH! Think? Just like you haven't seen things on my thread. Hell I don't even remember the thread name! Everything got stalled. Have parts in a pile. Time to work? Nada!
 

Darius

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Update time: To make a long story short.

When fitting and designing one-off parts for a custom install it is key to have all of the surrounding parts and pieces in place before spending a lot of time fabricating something that later won’t fit. Sadly that is a lesson that I’ve had to learn more than once. Stupidly I designed my Hydro boost mount without the driver’s side fender in place.

From the outset I had planned to run Hydro boost instead of a vacuum brake booster. Reason being they are smaller in the horizontal plane, while about as long. Also, knowing that the engine would be turbocharged I didn’t want to fool around with patches to not blow the booster up with positive pressure! Logic said it wouldn’t be fun after a burst of speed to step on the brakes and have less “stop” than was needed.

While an offset riser (thanks to a forum member) helped to move the components up, the bulge in the inner fender-well (where the tire resides) also claimed the space.

Time for plan “B,” remote the sucker!

Frankly, after 18 years I’m fricking tired of fabricating stuff, so I went ‘store bought.’ Thankfully, I still have that .38 and my trusty ski mask ... even if people think I’m only trying to avoid the Covid!

The solution was to employ a clutch master cylinder to actuate a slave cylinder at the Hydro boost. The pictures will do the explaining.

bro. d
 

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Darius

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CON'T installment:
 

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5one9

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The slave has become the master.
 

48Austin

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Update time: To make a long story short.

When fitting and designing one-off parts for a custom install it is key to have all of the surrounding parts and pieces in place before spending a lot of time fabricating something that later won’t fit. Sadly that is a lesson that I’ve had to learn more than once. Stupidly I designed my Hydro boost mount without the driver’s side fender in place.

From the outset I had planned to run Hydro boost instead of a vacuum brake booster. Reason being they are smaller in the horizontal plane, while about as long. Also, knowing that the engine would be turbocharged I didn’t want to fool around with patches to not blow the booster up with positive pressure! Logic said it wouldn’t be fun after a burst of speed to step on the brakes and have less “stop” than was needed.

While an offset riser (thanks to a forum member) helped to move the components up, the bulge in the inner fender-well (where the tire resides) also claimed the space.

Time for plan “B,” remote the sucker!

Frankly, after 18 years I’m fricking tired of fabricating stuff, so I went ‘store bought.’ Thankfully, I still have that .38 and my trusty ski mask ... even if people think I’m only trying to avoid the Covid!

The solution was to employ a clutch master cylinder to actuate a slave cylinder at the Hydro boost. The pictures will do the explaining.

bro. d
o_O! Sure glad I'm building basically a drag car. To many things in the Irack. Just going with good old every day Mexican {Manual} brakes. But looks KOOL. Hope works good.
 

Darius

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Say, 48Austin,

I really hope they work good!

Here is a picture where someone took remote mounting seriously and put the setup in the trunk.

Best,

bro. "Kinda nervous," d
 

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Psychoholic

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Hey @Darius I noticed your timing marker looks to have provisions for a hall sensor - where did you find that? That's a pretty big multi-op process if I make one so if someone has one for sale I might just be lazy and buy it.
 

Darius

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Howdy Chris,

Not sure where the timing marker came from but it may has a sister/brother. If so it's yours if you want it. I'll check Monday day.

bro. d
 

Darius

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As scary is it might sound, I have an idea!o_O :geek:??

Do you happen to have a 3D printer? Since I have a relatively pristine timing marker of the type which interests you ...... just thinking.

If the answer to the above question is "no," then how about I take mine to a local 'one day service' local provider and have them make up a couple? Metal or plastic, our choice!

I did check part of my stash and only found one Caddy timing marker and it did not have the provision for a hall sensor. Still, I believe there is one in the garage and will be able to confirm that once I get past the clutter and visit that distant shelf.

bro. "one way or the other, hopeful," d
 

Psychoholic

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I do have a 3d printer as a matter of fact. As of yesterday I also have a cnc router that will do aluminum.

Funny that I bought this so I could make stuff for my car (and make wood things to sell). I now have the ability to repeatably make very nice alternator relocation brackets, machine stuff into valve covers and overflow tanks, etc...
 

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Darius

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What’s your pleasure? Would you like to borrow the timing tab or is it not needed?

bro.d
 

Psychoholic

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That probably would save me a bunch of time in engineering although I don't want to just steal someone else's design and copy it so maybe if you just have some good pictures of it I can make some improvements for my nefarious purposes?
 

Darius

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Never satisfied!

Isn’t that always the case? We want ‘more’ or we want it ‘our way’. After wrongly thinking the project was close to being on the road some not remembered fact raised its head to delay the dream. No idea what the problem was but let's consider it fixed!

Radiator placement has been resolved, that is as long as I'm willing to go with a stock engine driven fan. But after fabricating the custom shroud for the Big Ass Lincoln 18” electric fan I just could not leave well enough alone. It only needs another ½” or maybe 5/8” to allow fitment.

Then there’s the reality that the engine tilt-down is about 8 degrees and should be no more than 4 degrees even though the rear differential housing can be tweaked 8 degrees up to match the engine down slope. I want it my way! That brings to mind the immortal words spoken by Mr. Forrest Gump; something about stupid.

So ….I bought a new engine lift plate to help wiggle things around in hopes of leveling things out while also finding space for that damned electric fan.

bro. “not as bright as he looks,” d
 

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