Discussion in 'Big Block Cadillacs' started by Darius, Jan 2, 2014.
It's all going to look brand new! Excellent
D your plugging along. Looks great. Any idea when you will be test driving it?
Progress was made in two of the three days over the Memorial Day Holiday. By that third day we were totally spent and just sat around talking. I'll post the most recent pictures as soon as there is time to reduce their size. The entire package is now in the car! I WILL NEED TO COME BACK OUT, but for now its all there!
A realistic timeline is to have the Caddy powered Studebaker done by the end of July. It will be a roller before that but there may even be some new paint on the beast by August 1st, 2018.
You are inspiring me. Im going to order the little parts for the rear gear change tonight. Simple stuff. Bearings,seals and lube with limited slip additive.
I know you are going to "GO THERE"
Who, me? Nah.
Who dis J.P. fella, sure does sound like a nice guy.
Hell, don't feel alone. Over on the "Rocker Arm Geometry" thread I signed my own signature wrong in post #17.
First pictures of the complete drivetrain package detailed and painted.
You have competition...another hottie white chick.
All seriousness aside...what a great job. That 'package' you showed us looks very professionally prepared. Obviously you learned, well, little jedi...
Ciao bro and a well deserved tip o' the hat.
Thank you, kind Sir!
And yes, the young lady does indeed fit the bill of a HWC - PLUS she is very hand with a wrench. She fabricates parts you need nearly as well as her husband and brother-in-law.
Like that color..
Have you bolted the converter up yet? In my 4l80e and stock converter it required 3/8 thick spacers between the flexplate and bosses on the converter to clear the crank bolts.
I want to see turbos next lol..
Looks great and it's inspiration for me to get off my butt and get mine moving forward...
Thanks for sharing
I need to cut a chunk out of the floor to enlarge the tunnel area.
Years ago the mere thought of cutting ‘metal’ would cause me to freeze with indecision. Now, what the hell! We’ll form a curved piece to increase clearances and weld it in. No big deal.
Have you ever NOT changed something only to find that now it doesn’t fit? No, not your jeans. Those confirm that you are just getting fat - er.
With the Caddy drive-train back in the Studebaker it soon because obvious that the engine was sitting higher than before and with a distinct "nose high" attitude. Same engine, same ‘basic’ transmission. So, what had changed?
Dinking around with the engine mount tabs (which can be flipped side to side) can cause a change of close to an inch in installed height. Logically, I just needed to flip the darn mount tabs - or so it seemed. That did affect the height but not the nose high (by 12 degrees) attitude. What was the problem?
While the engine and trans had been in place long ago to mock up the custom transmission tunnel, we now had a different 4L80E transmission, one with a NV149 AWD transfer case attached to the back of it. Simple things can bring needed changes. The TC sits a bit "proud" before it clocks down on the driver’s side. That and it’s extended length now interfere with getting the engine level, as it had been before. Solution: open up the floorboard, increase tunnel clearance and have the engine mount tabs flipped the right way.
Ain’t life grand!
Looking Sooo....good!!!! Impressed, keep on truckin'.
Again, with projects like this everything becomes an issue of getting things to fit. Putting 8.4 liters of engine into the space intended for a small 2.8 liter V6 doesn’t leave much room for minor things like steering shafts and such.
I have two intermediate steering shafts for the Studebaker. One came with the S10 frame that now sits beneath the Stude while the other was just something found in the wrecking yard that looked promising. That throwaway is actually the better fit.
Getting ANY shaft past the engine requires a bend to get around the shock tower and exhaust manifold. The stock u-joint can’t provide enough angle. I guessed that a double u-joint would do the trick and it did! Too bad those little puppies ain’t cheap.
Speedway Motors sells an offset steering gear driven adapter that mounts to the firewall. This may help with clearance around some of your stuff.
Thanks Brian, but my problem is the lack of space trying to get to the firewall. I ‘think’ the double u-joint will take care of the issue. That is uncertain because I’m going to try and lower the engine about an inch and a quarter, which will make the available space even smaller.
Those offset units are pretty slick. I had seen them before and lusted until noticing the price. Speaking of which, Speedway isn't sure of the price themselves as they are listed in different places with different prices - $599.99 and $699.99 .
My dad made one of these for his tractor once and failed to foresee that now when he turned right it went left and when he went left he went right. Power rack and pinion on a farmall A
It was back to the drawing board and with one more gear everything worked the second time. The homemade device was fine for the tractor but it was not for going 120mph.
You certainly want to get everything perfect the first time because it's going to be Hell getting to things for service when you're done stuffing.
Gary, my thoughts exactly!!
Unlike factory 'designers' I also have to work on this thing when it gets done; and long ago I learned how hard that could be if the original designers (factory) hadn't considered future maintenance.
Tonight I got the engine lowered; but along the way checked to see if there was clearance to get to critical bolts and parts. Too old to fight it so getting prepared for normal repairs.
Bro d. Do you need to install an idler mount on the shaft with that double u joint?