Overdrive water pump

Discussion in 'Big Block Cadillacs' started by 5one9, Apr 27, 2020.

  1. richie49

    richie49 Active Member

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    On my post of the corvair I had pics of the thermostat. I measured the little block plate on the thermostat and it was smaller than the hole so it doesn't seal it completely. I was wondering if that hurts my cooling because of the distance the pump has to send the water which is to the back of car and back to engine so there may be a lot of resistance and the water will take a path of least resistance around the bypass some not all but some .If it does blocking the bypass may help me .That's in the list of "need's checking" on my car and that list need's to stop growing!!!! :confused: :whistle: :rofl:
    Richard richie49
     
  2. 5one9

    5one9 Active Member

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    Saturday morning update. I did a couple of things, but only one thing at a time.
    The thermostat is an old Stant 332-180 high flow. The water pump is an enclosed back $35 remanufactured unit. There is a very large GVW trans cooler attached to the front of the radiator that measures 12" x 10-1/2" at the fins.

    First I replaced my Champion 3 core aluminum radiator with an Engineered Cooling Products 2 core aluminum radiator. The Champion has three 5/8" rows and the ECP has two 1" cores and larger tanks. Inlet and outlet diameters are the same. Pulley remained the stock 6-1/2". I pulled the dual 12" electric fans off and only ran the FlexOlite 418 plastic flex fan. The temperature driving at about 55mph settled in around 185-187F. When a power run was made the temp would go to about 195F and slowly return to 185F after about 1/2 mile of normal 55mph driving. Pull in the driveway and let it idle and within two minutes it is well past 200F. After about five minute it's at 210F. That's better than the Champion radiator and no electric fans. Decent improvement. Outside temperature 42F.

    Second I pulled the stock 6-1/2" pulley off and put on the L78/ZL1 5-7/8" pulley with no other changes. The temperature driving at about 55mph settled in around 175-7F. When a power run was made there was no change at all, still 175F. A no point whatsoever did the gauge go past 182F and that was when the thermostat first opened. Several power runs and slower back road driving yielded the same results. Pull in the driveway and let it idle and after at least five minutes it never got past 188F. I revved it up to 1500rpm and it came back down to 182F quickly and I shut it off. Very nice results. Outside temperature 45F.

    So my water pump and flex fan are somewhat faster than before and I believe that it would have made a big difference with the Champion radiator. I believe that the thermostat is actually doing it's job instead of just staying wide open all the time. I still have electric fans to try but I just don't know if I want to mess with it as I'm pretty happy as is. I can feel the cool air rushing with my hand in front of the grille and hot air being forced out as I hold my hand behind the cowl induction hood openings. The cheap plastic fan moves a lot of air.

    Richard has my 6-1/16" pulley and hopefully he'll see some good results from that.
     
  3. richie49

    richie49 Active Member

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    5one9
    I'm glad this has worked out for you on the overheating. Your results sound very encouraging!:) How hot is the summers in west virginia? I'm here inTexas where the summers are HOT!
    I'm on yard duty today:( The missus has spoken! :confused::rolleyes::laugh: Hopefully I can get on the car today.
    Richard richie49
     
  4. 5one9

    5one9 Active Member

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    85-95 in the summer and humid. My other setup would have been a miserable failure. We'll see what this does in the blistering heat.
     
  5. Darius

    Darius Well-Known Member

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    Good methodology brought good analysis, which brought good results. Nice!

    bro. d
     
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  6. 2JvLo

    2JvLo Active Member

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    I can't believe it really made that much of a difference!

    Are there no problems with higher rpm use?
    It kind of surprises me that this works out that well, Verry interesting and i think i'll make something similar as you did. Last road trip we went on, the car had to be pushed over the boarder with croatia because of getting nuke hot while sitting idle for way to long. My mate sitting behind the wheel stopped in front of the little patroul house and gave the man 3 passports, He looked back with a questioning face 3?? While not speaking any kind of foreign language he just pointed to the back where we were standing ready to push the old girl past the borden on our flip flops. One of the few times we weren't taken apart for a "random" vehicle check :rofl:
     
  7. 5one9

    5one9 Active Member

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    reconfirmed yesterday with 70F temps and a lot of miles and a lot of WOT runs.
     
  8. PJ McCoy

    PJ McCoy Well-Known Member

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    This is great news. You may have just helped out a TON of folks who have heating issues at temps in the mid 90's. My T/A will run 235 to hot for me, when stopped in traffic when its hot and humid outside. 93+ degrees. But cools off quickly when I start moving. No electric fan. I still have the old school 3 core that came with the T/A,
    What do you think about the just the oulley swap, then maybe an electric fan next?
    Its nerve racking to me when I drive the car, I try to make sure I never hit stop and go traffic during summer months.
    Thanks for the testing.
    PJ
     
  9. PJ McCoy

    PJ McCoy Well-Known Member

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    This is great news. You may have just helped out a TON of folks who have heating issues at temps in the mid 90's. My T/A will run 235 to hot for me, when stopped in traffic when its hot and humid outside. 93+ degrees. But cools off quickly when I start moving. No electric fan. I still have the old school 3 core that came with the T/A,
    What do you think about the just the oulley swap, then maybe an electric fan next?
    Its nerve racking to me when I drive the car, I try to make sure I never hit stop and go traffic during summer months.
    Thanks for the testing.
    PJ
     
  10. 5one9

    5one9 Active Member

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    I didn’t come up with the idea I just found a way around the expensive billet overdrive pulley. I’ll get some part numbers together for the pulleys and required spacer. Remember to make sure that you have an extra 1” of space between the radiator and fan for use of a clutch fan. You will lose 1” with my method. Electric fans would work but the loss of 1” might come into play depending on the thickness of the fan.
     
  11. richie49

    richie49 Active Member

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    I am going to swap out the pulley today on the corvair ,sure hope it gives any better results and steadier readings without going up down up down.

    Richard richie49
     
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  12. richie49

    richie49 Active Member

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    I swapped out the pulley today on my corvair .The pulley runs straight on mine and the alignment is spot on . I started the engine and it took forever it seemed to get to 160 where my sniper is controlling the fuel. Was staying at 185 for a while ,then went to 195 for a few minutes then 200 then 188 and back to 205. This is running in the neighberhood with a little high rpm shots.
    The engine is running fine but still heating up weird. I'm going to write up what I think may be happening on the my poor dead engine thread.
    Richard richie49
     
  13. 5one9

    5one9 Active Member

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    Turning my fan faster made a significant difference in the amount of air coming out the back of my cowl hood. I just wonder if the distance from your radiator to the engine and back isn’t causing the issue of wide swings in temperature? The pulley that I’m using is 1/4” smaller than yours which is 1/4” smaller than stock. Keep us updated

    edit: yours 3/8” smaller than stock
     
  14. richie49

    richie49 Active Member

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    What size is that new radiator ?
    Richard richie49
     
  15. 5one9

    5one9 Active Member

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    31"x18"x3" on the Champion 3 core that I took out. The new one should be the same. I know they made narrower G-body radiators but they were the same height at 18".
     
  16. 5one9

    5one9 Active Member

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    Never being one to leave well enough alone, I slapped a new Flexolite 16" Electric Wave style 3000cfm fan on the Champion shroud today and removed the plastic flex fan and factory shroud. Temperatures driving along stayed at 192F. Pulled in the driveway and let it set for 5 minutes and it went to 200F and stayed there. That setup is a joke compared to the plastic flex fan and stock shroud. I'll be putting on my 5 blade V6 clutch fan for giggles just to complete the comparison. If it works ok I may leave it. If not I'll go back to the plastic flex fan.

    Richard, my thought is that you just aren't moving enough air through your radiator compared to what you think you are.
     
  17. PJ McCoy

    PJ McCoy Well-Known Member

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    Richard, if it is possible, could you install a TEE into your cooling system? If so, it might be possible to have the Tee nipple be 3/4", getting 2 TEE's the same connect the 3/4" sides together to bypass the radiator. Yes you read that right. Heat cycling is not good for any engine. maintaining a constant temp is best even if its a bit high. your engine will love you for it.
    it may be possible to use a lower temp thermostat and allow the uncooled 3/4 line blend into the coolant before it enters the engine. this might keep your temps a bit more constant and your thermostat will not be cycling as often. once open stay open, I have a Kawasaki KLR 650, the engine heat cycles very bad, goes between 160-200, every one does this. causes cylinder deformation, wears the rings down, blah blah,blah… anyway this guy named BOB came up with a dual thermostat system the short circuits the radiator and keeps the motor temps constant at 180 or what ever the thermos is rated for. Its called a "THERMOBOB" Kit. So be open minded and follow the logic with cooling and heating cycles. The kit has helped many with over heating issues too. So maybe it can help with your situation, due to the long runs for the radiator. IDK, Just trying to help.
    https://shop.watt-man.com/Thermo-Bobs_c4.htm

    PJ
     
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  18. 5one9

    5one9 Active Member

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    5 blade clutch fan on. Sucks. 198F driving down the road and well over 200F idling around. Plastic flex fan back on and back to normal. 180F cruising and never higher than 187F. It is 82F and humid here today. That cheap plastic flex fan just flat out pulls the air. Period. Maybe it's costing me 100hp I don't know, but it sure does work.
     
  19. 48Austin

    48Austin Safty First! Then pull the trigger!

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    In the '70's there was company that actually made a kit to put the Cad and Olds engines in the Corvair, Don't remember the name. But they didn't have the overheating problems. Just interior heat problems. Remember a guy in the '80's who had an Olds 'Vair that ran 12'90's at Union Grove. With "Mr. Goodwrench" painted on it. Car went faster with street tires.
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2020
  20. 48Austin

    48Austin Safty First! Then pull the trigger!

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    Looked it up. Crown Corv8. Was a kit to turn the Corvair transaxle around or install a Cad Olds transaxle and engine. Put the engine in the back seat. So which made for a VERY warm passengers compartment. Look up what they did on cooling.
     

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