options for oil pressure/flow balance lines

El Diablo

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The above pictures are a great illustration of what needs to be done. I just have 1 quick question. When plumbing from the front oil galley port to the left side galley at the rear, are you plumbing into the galley port next to the cam plug or the oil pressure port at the top of the block?
 

Red98422

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The above pictures are a great illustration of what needs to be done. I just have 1 quick question. When plumbing from the front oil galley port to the left side galley at the rear, are you plumbing into the galley port next to the cam plug or the oil pressure port at the top of the block?

It was agreed that running one to the oil pressure port would better than leaving it stock, however the consensus was that tapping into the main oil headers at the rear would be the most effective. Good pictures on page 5 of this thread of port options (Dave Brode post)
 

Cadillac Kid 1

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Clearance on the driver's side gallery between the block and the flex plate are very small. IMHO to get a fitting small enough to clear would require one that would have at least the (oil flow) resistance of the extra 4 inches from the oil pressure sensor port to the drivers side gallery./ Bid not measure the gallery from the pressure port to the horizontal gallery, but it appears large.
In reality there are probably a lot of ways to increase oil flow but this go around I will "short shift" at about 5500 and see how that goes. ALWAYS can do more.
Greg Surfas
 

Big Cadoo!

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All,

We've talked about the option.

Repeat from other thread: It appears to some of us that the mains in the rear of the engine do not see as much flow as those in the front. I believe that the big problem is the pass side header that feeds a much greater number of leaks. However, although it may be a lesser problem, but I also believe that flow in the driver's side header is also not even, and number 5 main sees less than #1.

It would be fairly simple to connect the front port above the pump to the rear of the pass side header. If one wanted to connect to both headers, the effort becomes more complicated. The boss on the dr side header protrudes more.

It looks to me that the sloped/angled part of the block's rear bulkhead would be the easy place to come through.

Anyone care to stare at a block and give input as far as fittings and such? Clearance at the cam plug boss is limited.

Dave
I tried the oil line from front of block to rear of block into oil pressure port. Only until I fabricated a .875 id oil pickup tube and contoured the oil pump face on engine block to improve flow into pump gears and set oil pump to 100 psi and then set remote oil pressure relief valve at oil pressure port to 60psi and vent theoil to oil pan. You get no by pass at pump.
You can vent into lifter valley also. This is how ford side oiler engine flowed its oil. Their relief was in engine block so that all bearings were oiled then pressure was relieved.
 

Big Cadoo!

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Much has been said about the Cadillac oiling system over the years and I've had as many issues as anyone as I tried to push the envelope. Others have pushed farther with more success and deserve a lot of credit. I grew up building engines with my dad but never at a blueprint level so I trusted the Cadillac guru's with my engine and money only to be disappointed. I may have said this on other post but I talked to someone at Cadco that enlightened me and I think made me realize the fundamental problem. Most of us hot rodders use a rear sump pan that required a long pick-up tube. The Eldorados that donate most of the pans do not see high RPM blast. Factory valve springs made sure of that. My opinion is the oil pump is probably large enough but the long small OD pick-up tube is just too small and causes pump cavitation at elevated engine RPMs. I like the idea of the balance tubing to the rear of the block and I plan on installing them on my next engine. But they will not eliminate the oil pump cavitation problem. Cadco explained the need for more oil volume to keep up with the larger clearances that seem to be required for big horsepower builds. If I build another engine I will go with smaller clearances and I now think they are not necessarily needed as mentioned by Red98422 above. Cadco went on to tell me they drill the passage in the block from the oil pump to the pick-up tube and fabricate a 1" pick-up tube. If I had only known before my current engine was assembled I would have done this and felt good about the stock pump being adequate. Every time I see a Chevy LS engine with the pan off I now notice the large suction line used for the rear sump pans that make the Cadillac tube look tiny. And our engine is so long it just makes it worse. Now don't get me wrong, I do not think most need to even bother. My problems have all showed up at 6500 rpm on a dyno making 700 hp. If I can get it figured out I am going to try a belt drive oil pump with an external suction line. Cadco has a lot of tricks that we could benefit from but their business model is to not share their experience. The problem with that thinking is that unnecessary lessons learned will drive people away from the big Caddy instead of driving them to their shop for business, but that is another topic.

Dwayne
I had #8 rod bearing problems. Never lost a rod or engine from the oil problem. I tried the front to rear line and it didn't work. Still had #8 wearing out. I've had engine out to correct oil pressure problem by making oil pan mod, bushing lifter bores with .040 oil holes, restricted push rods. The fix was .875 id pickup tube fit with large screen. Contour stock pickup oring flange to blend flow from tube before welding. Had to modify oil pan to clear larger tube. Also on other engine I made a bronze insert where stock oring goes. Its tapered on bottom and flat to sit flush with block. Them made .750 thick steel flange with oring groove to seal bronze piece at it outside diameter. I have 512 cube cadillac with mechanical roller cam with compcams endurex sbc reduced base circle roller lifters with ford460 links. They don't have piddle valves and Bleed oil severely. I get 20psi hot oil and 55psi at 6000rpms. The oil guage climbs with rpms. With the stock pickup tube oil pressure went backwards with rpm increase. I also contoured the oil passage on engine block to improve flow into oil pump. I set oilpump to 100psi and use external oil pressure relief valve at the oil guage port atrear of engine block. Set that to 60psi. Vent to oil pan or into lifter valley area.
 

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Big Cadoo!

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The above pictures are a great illustration of what needs to be done. I just have 1 quick question. When plumbing from the front oil galley port to the left side galley at the rear, are you plumbing into the galley port next to the cam plug or the oil pressure port at the top of the block?
This is what needs to be done.
 

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Big Cadoo!

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