my poor dead engine

Darius

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2jvlo
Hopefully going to drive it soon if it quits fighting me:(,Got the tune better but the dang:mad::mad: starter went up in smoke going to change it out today or tommorow depending on the Rain... got some things to check out on the timing and the idle circuits. The car is plates and sticker ready to drive.

Richard richie49

Yahoo!!

d
 

PJ McCoy

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2jvlo
Hopefully going to drive it soon if it quits fighting me:(,Got the tune better but the dang:mad::mad: starter went up in smoke going to change it out today or tommorow depending on the Rain... got some things to check out on the timing and the idle circuits. The car is plates and sticker ready to drive.

Richard richie49
Richie What size cables are you using. I was able to find some battery cables off a dump truck at pick and pull. Maybe go to a yard and look for a big truck or commercial vehicle. That helped me. They are big enough to be used as welding leads.
 

richie49

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I have O or OO welding lead ,not sure what it is .Put it in a long time ago. I was more afraid it was too big but most people say it's not too big. I dont think I can find any off a vehicle because
the battery is in the back,the cables are like 10-13 feet long.

Back to all my fun.. After i smoked the starter it much pretty bad. So I went back and got another starter(stock style) and put it on making sure it was shimed correctly,all connection tight
and so forth.Charged battery and spun the motor over. It sounded good and because it was late ,I didnt fire off the motor just spinning with no timing spark.Sunday I open the hood and turned the key and tried to start it.It kicked back so I set the timing lower and it spun for about5-8 seconds and this starter started smoking.:mad: I then said @$#%&*!%$%!! and shut the hood and went in and had a beer.
This morning a friend brought over a hitahci gear reduction style starter.We put it on and spun it,It was spining great.BUT the gear was sticking too far out and wasnt getting clear of the flywheel.Okay just shim the gear housing back a little.CANT FIND THE DANG shims have to order some from jegs or summit and hope they fit which is of course 3-7 days from now.
Think I'll have a mixed drink today.

Richard richie49:(
 

PJ McCoy

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Well A beer didn't help. I doubt the mix drink will help. 2 will take the edge off. But I think its time for Richie to start praying.
S0000 Guru PJ say's to Richie:
Sit on the center of your motor in classic leg crossed fashion with elbows squared and thumbs touching index fafafafafinger pose.
Focus Richie!Focus! You are becoming one with your engine. The engine and Richie are 1. You are now numb from your waist down!

Because your carb is stuck in your A$$!!!!

ya, Richie- make two drinks and don't ever tell anyone of your meditation lesson- and don't listen to me!!!! LOL

On a serious note, I do wish you well and hope you can figure it all out. Those gremlins haunted me for a long time. When I was chasing them I thought to myself The reason I was having so many problems is because I chose to crossbreed a Caddy and Pontiac. So I started my very first post on the "Old Cadillac Power forum as [ Trans-Amillac] But I forgot my name and password. found it the glove box of my car last week. 4 yrs later.
PJ
Keep at it Bro, You will get their and you will breath a sigh of relief. We believe in Ya!
 

richie49

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When the new shims get here and if they fit I'll try it again.If it turns over okay I'll try to fire it off.If it even seems to sound wrong I'll will take the battery out of the trunk and move it to the fender with new short cables and try again. then I 'll see what happens.Then it should at least narow down the problem..
I dont think I need to try to be one with the engine,it has bit me in the A$$ and it already has my A$$ hurting:eek::( the drinks helped at the time.:)
Richard richie49
 

Monzallac 425

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Is your engine grounded to the frame with a battery cable?

How about your battery ground, is it grounded to the frame also?

Body grounds sometimes are not so good.....:whistle:

Doug in P.R.:cool:
 

richie49

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The cables go from the back of the car to the front.The neg cable is bolted to the block itself with smaller grounds from the block to the firewall ,fenderwells, core support and frame on both sides.When I get to the gear reduction starter ,if it doesnt work properly it will have to be with the cables or cable ends at fault.

Richard richie49
 

2JvLo

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What vehicle(s) do you drive?
66 Cdv 500
There is a wire that goes from the starter to the coil to bypass the ballast resistor while cranking. It should be connected to a seperate connector on the starter. If it's wired to the same wire as the starter solenoid it'll keep starting with the engine running.
 

Darius

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There is a wire that goes from the starter to the coil to bypass the ballast resistor while cranking. It should be connected to a seperate connector on the starter. If it's wired to the same wire as the starter solenoid it'll keep starting with the engine running.

Great observation, 2JvLo! Had never thought of that possibility.

bro. d
 

richie49

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2JvLo
About that wire ,I havn't used that wire its not needed with my wiring harness.thanks for thinking of it because I was looking for anything to look for.

Okay I got some results finally without having to burn the car to the ground.:eek: I got ahold of a hitachi gear reduction starter and put it on and after fighting the noise of it hitting
the flywheel I got it to be quite.I cranked it up,(tune is still crappy)and checked the timing.With the vacumn disconnected it was set at 33 degrees and the starter wasnt even fussing just crank and fire up.
I reset timing to 20 initial and ran the rpm up till the centrifical advance finished coming up and It was 45 degrees ,so now I have to restrict the machanical to 18 or so and then adjust for best results. So
how can I do that without soldering the advance hole on the shaft under the rotor? The engine still runs rather rough and shakes a lot (carb is still a suspect but got to get the distributer right first.)

Richard richie49
P.S. The engine revs up really well with no hesitation, Maybe now I can get it to behave enough to street it.:)
 

Darius

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2JvLo
About that wire ,I havn't used that wire its not needed with my wiring harness.thanks for thinking of it because I was looking for anything to look for.

Okay I got some results finally without having to burn the car to the ground.:eek: I got ahold of a hitachi gear reduction starter and put it on and after fighting the noise of it hitting
the flywheel I got it to be quite.I cranked it up,(tune is still crappy)and checked the timing.With the vacumn disconnected it was set at 33 degrees and the starter wasnt even fussing just crank and fire up.
I reset timing to 20 initial and ran the rpm up till the centrifical advance finished coming up and It was 45 degrees ,so now I have to restrict the machanical to 18 or so and then adjust for best results. So
how can I do that without soldering the advance hole on the shaft under the rotor? The engine still runs rather rough and shakes a lot (carb is still a suspect but got to get the distributer right first.)

Richard richie49
P.S. The engine revs up really well with no hesitation, Maybe now I can get it to behave enough to street it.:)

Richard,

As I understanding you correctly that total timing - WITHOUT VACUUM ADVANCE - is 45 degrees (combined initial and centrifugal)? If so, that is far too much!

I'll await your comment before going any further.

Best.

bro. d
 

richie49

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Yep it was 45 degrees.That was after I set it to 20 degrees initial and ran up the revs till it quit advancing. That was why I said I need to reduce the mechanical to around 18. I was wondering how is the easiest or best way to reduce the mechanical advance.After looking on different sites they say the points distributor the mechanical advance is limited by a bushing that is rubber under the weights.I'm still looking at that.

Richard richie49
 
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Darius

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Does anyone make motor mounts stronger than the stock ones?

Richard richie49

Not to get into your business but why the concern for stronger motor mounts? Considering the lightness of your car, in comparison to the originals our engines came in, traction wouldn't put much strain on the engine/transmission mounts. Just curious.

While you were asking about "stronger" motor mounts, there are a number of sources for aftermarket mounts but I have no idea is they would be stronger.

Richard, mine are home made and they aren't that difficult to fabricate.

Best,

bro. d

https://www.ebay.com/p/425-472-500-...et-Hot-Rod/1292408319?iid=230625743901&chn=ps

https://www.cad500parts.com/tech/MotorMountKit.pdf

https://www.cad500parts.com/tech/MotorMountKitGV1.pdf

https://www.summitracing.com/search...nd-inserts/make/cadillac/engine-size/8-2l-500

https://www.google.com/search?q=Cad...imgrc=eSBG_-Vm-DgjgM:&vet=1&spf=1557163142920
 

richie49

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Darius
Mostly just curious. I had heard some time back someone was going to make some.The reason I was looking at mounts was because the motor in my car is rocking and
shaking more than it should. I looked at the mounts with the motor running and one mount looks good no movement,the other one looks bad and is very soft and can see a lot
of movement so I am going to replace it. I found one and as soon as I can, I'm gonna switch it out . Thanks for the links,I do like the first one on ebay and
if I have to change them later thats what I will go with, sure wish I had seen those 16 years ago when I was was mounting the engine the first time.When you get a chance can you post what your mounts look like.
Got so many things to do ,the car is going slow being fixed up. And this week its supposed to rain all week .

Richard richie49
 

richie49

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Well It's Time
After fighting this engine trying to get it to start(bad starters) ,Then arguing trying to get it to run and idle I give up on this new style #15 cam. It will never be a cam I can enjoy
driving around.It has to idle at 1000 rpm and it just rocks and anything that can rattle will while the engine is running.Its rough.It also has 12 inchs of vacumn,not a worry with my vechicle but it might not be good for others Now this cam may be good for others with a higher compression
but not a low compression stock engine.To make this cam drivable I have to add stall converter just to be able to drive.Also with having to have 25 degrees initial I have to modify my distributer
to get correct timing at full trottle. I have gotten it to start easy with the key.I have spent all week trying to get a better tune and its not working.
Everything I have heard says the 15 is a great cam.I also heard that they were on a 112 lobe seperation while the new cam is a 108 ground on a 104 centerline. It may be a monster for power but to me I need a cam with a good idle.This car of mine will hardly see strip times its a toy driver for when I feel like cruising. So I guess my corvair is dead till I find a new cam with better specs and of course
the money to redo.
Ok my rant is over

Richard richie49
 

Red98422

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Damn I am sorry to hear of your troubles, maybe you would have some luck posting a trade advertisement for something like a #5 MTS or maybe something like SS120 from Cadco.

It is unfortunate that you are having this much trouble while being so close...keep at it and try not to lose heart!
 

richie49

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Red
I liked the mt10 cam I had before it lost oil pressure( the 500 ci) and the cam didnt look perfect so i went with the larger cam.I'm going to bring he #10 cam to my machinist and see if it looks good to go back in.With the 1.7 rockers the 10 would be stronger and it did idle great but if it isnt still usable I don't want to order a new 10 from CHP.They changed the specs on their cams without telling about the changes on the web site or bothering to inform people about the changes so I don't trust them anymore ,they might send me a new 10 that isnt the same cam specs.

Richard richie49
 

Red98422

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I am far from an expert on camshafts...im only familiar with the LSA and it effect on idle

it does suck that they changed the specs on us without even a warning or description saying “lumpy idle”
 
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