Cad man The spec sheet says 108 lobe separation and a icl of 104 for 4* advance I was exspecting what you wrote. Here is the spec sheet And I will be running1.7 shaft rockers whenever they arrive,on back order. Richard richie49
I wouldn't worry about that too much. Install it and enjoy. I hope your rockers come in soon. You will be a very happy when you take it out for a test drive. Good job and keep up the great work on your build. Pj PS I like this thread of yours,
P J Your running the mt 15 in your cad.Does it have the same specs on your cam card? I know the specs listed when AL Betker had the mts are different than now.Was mainly curious if I got a newer version of the 15. Mine should be a bit more lift with the 1.7 rockers than what you have.No telling what I have to do for the valve covers.I have no room for the aluminum valve covers or money for them.Really wouldnt fit with my no bling style car. if mine runs anywhere good as yours does I'll be happy. Richard richie49
Awsome, That cam looks to be exact what i'm going to let the guys at howards cams grind me, Let us know how you like it. Your best bet is to contact MTS, They'll tell you for sure if you can get away with the stock valve covers. Somebody also used to sell spacers for them.
It looks like chp jumped on the narrow bandwagon then ehh?? Mts never used it that I seen They also changed the .05 duration
There is still a guy making spacers on the ebay but damn they’re expensive! 3/8” $130+$20 sipping 1/2” $130+$20 1” $185+$26
Well it was a surprize when I saw it.I saw the spacers on ebay and really hope I dont have to got that route. i have erxtra valve covers so I might modify them to fit. Hey Cad man you know about cams ,you think this one will have a a little more chop at idle?I wanted the corvair to appear and shound stock but face it that ideal went out the window as soon as I cranked it up where people could hear it and that was with the mts 10 steath. So if its rummbles at idle a little it would be great. A week before christmas sheeez Bet I dont get to start till after christmas. Any married person will understand that item. Richard richie49
I had a cam very close to that except it had more lift and it had some when it was cold and at very low idle rpm . That was a 472 .fattening the idle mix gave it some hot.. conversely you may be able to eliminate it completely with tuning That was with a factory dual plane and exhaust manifolds. All affect the idle characteristics because of overlap The 236@.05 108 always had a lope. So yet right at the edge I would say I also had a 238@.05 110lsa solid flat tappet in a 507 with heavily ported 902's ported factory single plane and that loped a good bit Main thing it. It should make some decent power ..
Okay everybody its rookie time I was looking at the parts and evrything is wrapped with no boxs ect. That isn't anything but when looking at the rings The only instruction is if the ring doesnt have markings or bevels they go in up or down facing. Thats ok now it says if they have markings that ring goes facing up .Still ok. but it has no mention if the plain rings or marked ring go in which groove. so does someone have that little bit of information?Generaly it tells which ring set goes in which groove. Richard richie49 back to rookie statis
Marked should go in the 2nd if hastings rings What brand are they ? If they are cast iron I would send them back . Of course you need proper finish on your cylinders for either style rings Here is a clip from them When you first open the box, you will see that the tabs say “1”, “2” or “3” to show which groove the rings are. Once you’ve removed the rings from the box, you’ll see that the 2nd groove ring has a dot on the top and an inside bevel at the bottom. Install the dot toward the top of the piston. Check the top ring for inside bevel, and install bevel up. If there’s no bevel, install either way in the top groove. If both top and 2nd rings have a dot and your set has a coating, the OD will be metallic in color where as the 2nd ring will usually be black.
I thought they were a name brand when I ordered them but cant find a name anymore on the web site and they arrived wrapped in bubble wrap with a piece of paper say about the markings but not the order of which groove they go in.Looks like they order in bulk and just count out the number of parts and bubble wrap and off it goes. im not the most confortable with these parts. All the parts came without boxs and everything was just bubble wraped . the only thing with a tag was the headgaskits from mahle.All the other gaskets were stuck in little clear bags . Now the cam came seperate from lunati and was very and was in a lunati box and all that stuff. Richard richie49
Rich, I bought my cam from a forum member NOS and it was shipped without the cam card. When I measured the cam, I got .320 for intake lift and .318 for exhaust lift. I am using CadCo stage 1 rocker shaft @ 1.60 ratio. Still plenty of power for me and fun as all get out. The motor idles at 900 with a smooth tone. Last night I dropped the idle down to 700 rpm, I can hear more of a lope but nothing like what your going to hear. I believe the old MTS saying that power brakes will work with their 15, due to the LS and CL. Back in the day they wanted to cut a stronger cam that didn't sound to far off from stock. I believe your cam has the jump on mine in all areas. Sound power curve, FUN FACTOR! Remember, Its your build. Advise is great and needed. In the end your driving the car. I built mine on a very very cheap budget. I spent close to $2,200.00 that's it. The machine shop is were I found Cost me the most. Between the heads being shaved and the valve bosses being milled and brass guilds. I knew then I couldn't afford to have the entire block decked etc. I used NOS- fuel pump, Holley red, cam, lifters,and second hand rocker shaft w/pushrods, new gasket rebuild kit. New Springs etc., used Ebay Holley 780. The $2.2k even includes a rear truck axle I bought not knowing that a 12 bolt truck axle is weaker than my 8.5. All of this was over time. Just look back at post 81 Trans Am. I followed "WildMans" advice, I.e. Cadman, AKA Mad Banana, AKA better looking of the two ugly twins( Thanks D) He said, PJ make a plan and it takes what ever $$ it takes. So I then realized I wanted a bad ass ride but didn't know how to do that. At All . I got sucked up into all the hype of the build that I wasn't thinking about the total car and how each part works best together. So working with I had, A stock rebuilt motor,(100.00 mechanics auction) made a list, I wanted it to last. Like forever, and settled for fun factor because really I can afford that and not the bas ass I wanted. So Im still plugging along that list every year acquiring parts that will compliment each other as a total package. I LOVE MY CAR!!! Its not a show queen, IT FUN and I built it!!! You have a great cam,IMO, You will enjoy it so much. As long as everything else works as a total package. BTW, Lowering my idle, oil psi went to 25, but it doesn't creep in drive and will smoke the rubber at a blip. Go figure That's with the Old grind. Your going to LOVE that cam bro. PJ Try removing the "splash guard?" thingy from inside your valve covers. I used a Dremel. take your time around the spot welds that hold it all together. The metal is thinner there.
Cad company has cheap $50 chrome valve covers they say will fit most non adjustable rocker assemblies by using 2x gaskets. I bought them haven’t tried them yet but they said will clear my stage 3 1.72 rocker set up. At least till I can save up for the pretty aluminum covers!
Finally got to start on my 500 rebuild. Bottom end is stock rebuild ,crank turned 10-10 new rod,main bearings ,rings new cam bearings. CHP # 15 grind by lunati 108 LS. Stock heads fresh valve job. Got my shaft rockers non adjustable look great BUT pushrods are too long i think ,going to find my o e m pushrods and check them. How do you check lengh to begin with ? Got a questions and need to check spring pressures for the 15 cam. What should they be closed and open.? Richard richie49
Pushrod measuring tool....that’s actually what it’s called lol . https://www.hotrod.com/articles/how-to-measure-for-correct-length-pushrods/amp/
RED , Thanks for the artical about the pushrod checker,gonna read up on that in a while.After working on the motor all day and being tired and fustrated I guess I had brain farts or blanks last night. Going to go find a checker.Hope I can find one without having to order and having to wait. hmmm guess that wont matter,would have to wait on the pushrods. If it ain't one thing it's another.Hot rodding is so much fun at times Richard richie49
