my poor dead engine

cadillac512

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I'd measure the current draw of the relay coil with test leads and a Multimeter-probably will be milliamps.

Update: Checked a Hella 5 pin 40A relay I have here and energizing coil is 180ma. So, less than .2 amps draw.
 
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richie49

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cadillac512
Thanks for the info.I have found thru another site the numbers for good relays at 75 amps. Anyone want them I'll post them.
Right now I have a stardard relay60/80 amp .It seems to work just fine at the moment.While idling the temps run up to 185,fan cuts in and the temp rises to 187 and back down to 178 then back up to 185,187 then 178 sitting still in the driveway.Unfortunately when getting on the road the temp goes up to 190 which is good but then blows the coolant out a 18 lb cap. Thats right a blown headgasket. So I guess it's dead for a while now. And being stuffed in the corvair I have to move a lot to either pull engine or heads in the car.Neither are fun.......... :( :crap:
Richard richie49
 

richie49

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I hope to start pulling he heads this week. I think that it will be easier to just pull heads instead of the engine. To just pull the heads I have to do the usual exhaust,sniper, Distributer and other normal stuff.I also have to remove the hydro boost,brake assembly. To pull engine everything from the grill to the firewall has to come out to swing engine forward and up.
Richard richie49
 

Caddylackn

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Man, it doesn't seem like you can buy a break.

Use a cherry picker to help remove the head, bending over a motor and lifting up a BB caddy cast iron head half stuck to the block is asking for back strain or a back injury, and with your current luck I would not take the risk.
 

richie49

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I have a cherry picker! I am going to be using it too.The fun part is that a have a gravel driveway.
The picker doesn't roll very good and the car rolls really easy so I hook up the picker lift up the head and push the car backwards. Lower the head to my wagon and roll it away. Push car forward and go again. A little long winded doing it this way but it easier on me. I started on it today and the intake is ready to come out and I wish it was the 2115 ,so much lighter :rolleyes:. It's going to be fun putting that sniper back on when the heads are done.
Scott Hatch on the facebook Cadillac site does a cooling mod I'm going to try. On the back of the block ,you enlarge the holes in the block to allow more cooliant flow thru the block up into the head at the back of the block up into the head and forward to the thermostat. almost all the flow is thru a 1/2 inch hole. I Shall see what happens.
Richard richie49
 

cadillac512

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Scott Hatch (caddycarlo) is a smart guy. Paying attention to what he says is always a good plan.

Terry
 

richie49

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Mario
Thats for sure!
Cadillac 512
When are you going to build a new caddy powered vehicle?

I was worried about getting the head gaskets and intake pan because I have heard about shortages from felpro. Went to Oriely's and they had them at the warehouse (20 minutes from my house) so thats a relief. Now to get something done!!(after honey doo's :rolleyes: :laugh:)
Richard richie49
 

cadillac512

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Hey Mario-
I am too shabby! But for you, I'll clean up my act a bit and maybe even see if I can find a razor.
Richard-
I don't know. I have some stuff to put a mild engine together but nothing to put it in...but maybe if I retire before too long I'll consider it. I have a few "other brand" engines here that I've built, run, and stored for a few years (I like building engines!) that aren't powering anything either. WTF? o_O

Terry
 

48Austin

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What vehicle(s) do you drive?
1964 Commercial, 1948 Austin, 58 Pan
Have a '48 Austin that's just itching for A BBC(Big Block Cad). Small letters for chebie.
 

richie49

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Morning
Got a question for all of you.What sealer do you use to seal intake pan? I have used the right stuff but I wont use it again!!I used it when I rebuilt the engine and it sealed great no leaks..BUT I had to remove it to start on the head gaskets. It took me about 3 hours to figure out how to remove the intakeo_O That sucker was almost welded together. Tried prying at the lip on the heat crossover,beating a sharpened screwdriver into the lip.Tried a putty knife in the seams.Nothing worked .Then I got out my air chiesl hammer.Sharpened that sucker to a thin lip and let it hammer the bit in. Still had to space it out as I walked it around the intake.I thought it was going to break the china rail at first ,thank god for high nickle blocks.:rofl: All day for a intake ,that was fun.:rolleyes:
Richard richie49
 

Cadillac Kid 1

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Terry,
I thought I was the only one like that that just liked putting motors together. When this pandemic hit and the prospect of "down time" loomed large I found enough parts, blocks, heads and cranks to put together a total of 7 engines. They are in various states of machining and assembly and when the mood strikes I do a bit on one. Got a favorite, a 1970 4872 that was not worn enough to need to be bored. Stock pistons, moly rings, ARP rod bolts, balanced and with a CadCo (Isky) SS 205 H cam.
Working on the heads currently and when it is done I have no idea what I am going to do with it.
Cadillac engines just lend themselves to being worked on.
Greg Surfas
 

cadillac512

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Morning
Got a question for all of you.What sealer do you use to seal intake pan? I have used the right stuff but I wont use it again!!I used it when I rebuilt the engine and it sealed great no leaks..BUT I had to remove it to start on the head gaskets. It took me about 3 hours to figure out how to remove the intakeo_O That sucker was almost welded together. Tried prying at the lip on the heat crossover,beating a sharpened screwdriver into the lip.Tried a putty knife in the seams.Nothing worked .Then I got out my air chiesl hammer.Sharpened that sucker to a thin lip and let it hammer the bit in. Still had to space it out as I walked it around the intake.I thought it was going to break the china rail at first ,thank god for high nickle blocks.:rofl: All day for a intake ,that was fun.:rolleyes:
Richard richie49
I just use good RTV. Right stuff is, as you've noticed, way too aggressive for my tastes.

Terry
 

Cadillac Kid 1

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FWIW on the engines that use stock intakes I use the valley pan with Permatex High Tack on both sides of the pan around the intake ports and Permatex Ultra Black on the china rails. Works for me.
Greg Surfas
 

richie49

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Greg , Terry
Since you both like building engines,If mine doesn't behave I will certainly let yall have the fun of rebuilding it!! o_O :laugh: :whistle:
That right stuff was bad to remove for sure. I used to use permatex aviation sealant couldn't find it last time.
Richard richie49
 

richie49

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That must be why I'm not trilled with redoing my engine:oops::(. I hope to have the heads off today. Do clean up and have it ready to go back together.Got a friend coming over to help assemble it (again).
Which head gaskets seem to be better FelPro or Mahle ?
Richard richie49
 

5one9

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What vehicle(s) do you drive?
2007 Magnum SRT8, 1957 F100
That must be why I'm not trilled with redoing my engine:oops::(. I hope to have the heads off today. Do clean up and have it ready to go back together.Got a friend coming over to help assemble it (again).
Which head gaskets seem to be better FelPro or Mahle ?
Richard richie49

I’m using Felpro on my ‘57 Ford build 500. I use Detroit on everything in my past life and I have 3 new sets of them and a set of Black Cad500 (Detroit made). They have a 4,38” bore compared to Felpro 4.36”. I believe Detroit to be more forgiving on an imperfect deck and their gasket went through nitrous hell and overheating in my Buick 455 without issues.
 
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