my poor dead engine

Darius

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2JvLo
The sniper can be set for whatever cranking timing and then a timing for idling and then WOT and one for cruising,pretty neat.

I replaced the gear reduction with a hi -torque GM original style. (it was free) cleaned ,cleaned all my connections and replaced the cable from the starter to the ford style solinoid.That one had the insulation burnt
off,not touching anything but had wire showing. So I checked everything again,battery at 12.7 volts and spun it over! The engine started very easily.Took it down the road for a 30 minute ride and the car car ran great. Nice smooth off the line at easy throttle and lots of tire spin at a more aggressive throttle.:) I loved it. Went on back to the house turned it off and waited a little bit and hit the key!:(:mad::crap: The engine barely turned over. The alternator was suppling 14.2-14.4 volts. So i let it set then went back out (after a beer with thoughts of another one when I went back in.) to do some checking. Battery showed 12.7 volts.
Put my volt meter on it and cranked it(tryed) voltage dropped to 4.5 volts:(. So I guess my next move is a new battery.

Is there a go-fund me setup somewhere for caddy -corvair owners??:rofl::rolleyes:

Richard richie49 still trying
Richie,

As a Corvair owner (now just in the dune-buggy) and a big block Caddy lover, I'll contribute!!
When you're "double crazy" you need as the help you can get.

bro. "guilty as charged," d
 

richie49

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I saw on facebook someone wrote that when we went to daylight savings time we didn't know we were going to the twilight zone. Case in point:: yesterday Went out to the car and measured my battery box
Wanted to make sure the new battery will fit. Pulled the battery ,put it in back of my truck ,changed pants and jumped in truck!!! The dang thing wouldn't start, low battery. It sets a lot and I forget to start it up at times. OKAY pull out my charger and set it. Go into the house to wash up and the water was cut off.No water,working down the street on the pipes. Got the battery and the car is starting great at the moment.
BUT now its time for the ROAD TEST:eek:.Sure hope it's a :) and not a :crap:. :rofl::confused:
Richard richie49
 

5one9

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Keep us updated
 

Darius

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We haven't heard from him since he was going for a ROAD TEST. o_O
I'm getting worried he's stranded someplace!:eek: :sick:

d
 

kzhurley

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We haven't heard from him since he was going for a ROAD TEST. o_O
I'm getting worried he's stranded someplace!:eek: :sick:

d

Maybe he's out cruising around enjoying how well it's running.......
 

5one9

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2mpg will bite you in the a$$ every time
 

richie49

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For once I survived the ROAD tEsT:) . i believe I can now chase another little quirk the car has. The car ran great, smooth and all that. Started great after the test drive
so all that is right with the world:laugh: Problem i am still having is about overheating . Its not bad most of the time I think it's with the timing. What it is doing is the temp goes up then down back and forth.
The thermostat is a 180 and the temp goes from 192 to 205 back and forth depending on speed (and timing on the handheld). Now if it stayed within that range it would be ok. But somewhere along a drive it decides to hit 206 then it climbs and I shut it down at 230* Still chasing that one. Going to try a high flow thermostat from cad co and maybe a smaller pulley to speed up the pump some. I asked a long time ago about a smaller pulley but so far all I found is the cadco billet pulley and that would not look right on my engine:rofl: The engine is running very nicely so I kinda hate to try modifing the spark and fuel curve to see if that helps because well lately with my luck it might help the running and overheating and i'll break something else.:eek:

Isn't this hobby FUN:D
Richard richie49
 

5one9

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i think these engines are just quirky when it comes to temperature. I have a 180 thermostat, a 3 core aluminum radiator, two 12” electric fans on a thermostat, and an 18” flex fan. I’m that paranoid. My fiberglass front bumper doesn’t allow enough air flow to satisfy me either. Your car poses it’s own problems which are likely worse than mine. What is your setup?
 

richie49

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5one9
Mine is a rather different setup.The radiator is set up in the back under the original air vents for the original flat 6 cyl air cooled motor. The coolent lines go from the engine over the fender wells down
under the body back to the radiator. Its set in a sealed box under the vents. I have a shroud and fans off a windstar wagon. the radiator is mounted flat with just a little slant to let the air go up to the rad cap.
The shroud fits completely over the rad and pulls air thru it and the air vents under the car and out the back of the car. This system worked very well with the original stock engine.(as far as I know it did) The system has 7 1/2 gallons of cooliant. I have checked the fans ,both are working.I have vents at all the high spots to bled air. I was going to order a high flow thermostat today and forgot ,so thats on the list. Kinda want to speed up the water pump but cant find a possible one to try out.I was going to use a chevy pump pulley and space it out till it aligned up but they are the same size as the one on the car.Something like 6 1/4 inchs.

Richard richie49
 

Darius

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Richie,

Glad you made it back unscathed! :thumbup: After all that you've been through I did have some worries. :D

That little cooling problem is interesting. I too have had Corvairs with rear mounted - and front mounted radiators, cooling V8's, and am therefore somewhat familiar with the quirks. Hmm.

About that water pump pulley: let me check tomorrow (Friday) as I might have a smaller one to send your way. Nothing fancy looking, just basic Cadillac stuff.

Congratulation on fighting through all of the trials and tribulation with this build. Hearing about how it runs gives me hope for my project.

Best,

bro. d
 

Cadillac Kid 1

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Not to beat a dead horse but these motors need the additional vacuum advance at cruise to maintain temperature and especially need it at idle for the same rason. You can expect the motor to run just about 120* above ambient with a radiator and fans equivalent to stock.
Greg Surfas
 

richie49

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Greg Surfas
I have a holley sniper on the engine and it is controlling the timing. I have to give it some time to" learn the system" There is no vacumn advance it's all controlled with the sniper ecu.
I have not learned what to look for on a timing and fuel map .I can and see and adjust it but if I dont know what to adjust it to might make more mess than leaving it to learn it itself.

Darius
The pulley is a stock one for 1976 , I can go measure it in a while.
Richard richie 49
 

Cadillac Kid 1

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Richie,
A problem you will run into when you speed up the water pump is cavitation over about 3500 rpm. Probably the best "fix in the water pump area would be a FlowKooler pump with its shrouded and relieved impeller. QUITE a bit better in low speed and high speed flow than a stock pump.
Greg Surfas
 

richie49

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Greg
I do have the high flowcooler pump on it.
Darius
I found out I have a pulley from a 75 engine ,it's the big cast iron looking thing but it'll tell me if it helps or not. The water pump grove is smaller than the one I have.
I'll give it a try in the morning ( my morning is anywhere from 11:00 to 2:00:rofl::confused:)

Greg
the pulley I am trying is off a caddy 500 so it should'nt be too far out to mess up with cavitation.

Richard richie49
 

Cadillac Kid 1

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You did not mention whether the temperature went up (to 220*) when you were cruising along at highway speed or when you were going slow.
Greg Surfas
 

5one9

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If it’s like mine it idles at 220. Any driving at all and I’m back below 190.
Richard’s sounds like like it keeps a large air bubble in it.

what years have the smaller water pump pulley?
 

5one9

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I'm looking at the stock pulleys like Richard described (the cast iron pulley with the smaller rear pulley). There are a couple of things that I don't understand that may help Richard's situation and mine. If you use this pulley, what do you drive it with? There isn't a crank pulley that lines up with it.

If you could use this pulley you would be speeding up the water pump, correct? If that helps then why does CHP use this quote with their aluminum pulley description "* 12% Under-Driven for Increased Horsepower, water flow, and Fuel Economy."? They claim underdriving helps water flow. What is the cure? Underdriving or overdriving?
 

Cadillac Kid 1

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By slowing the water pump down you keep it from cavitating longer. This is good for high speed operation but IMHO will raise havoc.
Greg Surfas
 

richie49

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5one9
When I found the pulley yesterday I have no idea where my mind was.I checked the offset on the pulley with another one I had.It was a chevy and the offset was looking good till I saw it wasn't the caddy one.
It looks like I'd have to space it out a inch or so to line upwith the other pulleys. Crap. Now its back to a smaller pulley or a spacer.:( Is it time for another beer?:rofl: remember it's five oclock somewhere!!!!!

Darius did you find a smaller pulley?
 

5one9

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I cut and grafted together a small crank pulley for my Buick 455 back before they made such a thing. I may just give it a shot on the Caddy water pump. I have a good 229 Chevy pulley that would be a good candidate. I’ll do some measuring tonight and post some pics.

Cadco sells a small aluminum pulley but it would be $180+ to my door. If the guaranteed it would move my idle temp from 220 to 200 I’d probably do it.
 
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