High Comp 120cc Build

Andy V

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when the shop mentioned to you about sanding with 1500grit, to remove high spots...they were talking about the back of the shells (at least I assume so). If there's a high spot there yes you can file or knock it down on the back side.

I'd also recommend a light oil for this test, since it is cold out. The assembly lube is thick and incompressible so it can make the crank turn real tight, especially at the fairly tight (<.003) oil clearance you got
 

yellowroket

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samIam said:
Quick question, are the caps on correctly? Had it line honed and don't want to mess it up.



Edited, found the answers to the other questions I had. Hand tighten the studs, torque to 110lbs with Arp lube.

Pretty sure you've got the caps on backwards. Just tore my 514 down and all the cap markings were to the left side when looking at the block upside down and front to back. Took a picture for reference.

 

samIam

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Thank you. After putting them on correctly, my clearances were about .0028 to .003ish judging by the plastigauge.

My garage is heated as I run a repair shop out of it. Stays about 55 degrees when I'm not inside. Got a few motors in it.
 

Member 3508

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D'oh, i feel really stupid now....

I thought the caps had a very slight offset, so you couldnt put them on the other way. Guess thats not true. Good catch guys.
 

The Mad Cadder

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I guess my pm to Sam on the caps was not clear as I used
the drivers seat refference I said Right side ..
Which it is when looking at the block upside down from the rear..

I should have just said they are wrong !! :dunce:

A easy way to remember is.. The rear main can only go one way
look at how the tabs on it are situated and make the rest
the same
 

samIam

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Your pm was clear, my head wasn't I guess. I knew you meant right side from the driver seat and I even stopped and thought about it for a minute and said "yup, all good". Lol

When he stopped by yesterday, he said the same thing you said mad, use the rear main for reference.
 
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Just to clarify - driver's side - left side
passenger side - right side
front is front
back side is rear
top side is top
bottom side - same

When viewing from the top looking towards the front (the accepted perspective) - drivers side is left, passengers side is right.

John
 

The Mad Cadder

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one finger john said:
Just to clarify - driver's side - left side
passenger side - right side
front is front
back side is rear
top side is top
bottom side - same

When viewing from the top looking towards the front (the accepted perspective) - drivers side is left, passengers side is right.

John

Not when the block is upside down.. Like when your working on it on a engine stand
 

dave brode

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samIam said:
Got my end play to .005 using 1500 grit sandpaper on my house window. Didn't have any time to do anything else.


Good job!

Don't worry about the cap mistake, stuff happens. At least you didn't put it together and run it!!

With no bearings [or crank] in place, you can feel that they are on wright or wrong. They could have put an arrow on them! [which normally goes forward, like on pistons].

Dave
 
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pila78 said:
The pilot's side is on the port side......( left ) :D

And if it is a right hand drive car ?

Doh! Pila's car would be a right hand drive car. Wouldn't it ?

No, wait :banghead: :cursing: :censored:

Have a :beer: It'll be O.K.
 

The Mad Cadder

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dave brode said:
samIam said:
Got my end play to .005 using 1500 grit sandpaper on my house window. Didn't have any time to do anything else.


Good job!

Don't worry about the cap mistake, stuff happens. At least you didn't put it together and run it!!

Dave


:thumbup:
 

samIam

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Thanks, glad y'all got me past this. Hopefully gonna assemble the crank for the last time tonight after basketball practice(coaching 3rd grade). I've seen a few people mention using regular engine oil for assembly, is that the norm?
 

Darius

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samIam said:
Thanks, glad y'all got me past this. Hopefully gonna assemble the crank for the last time tonight after basketball practice(coaching 3rd grade). I've seen a few people mention using regular engine oil for assembly, is that the norm?

I was in 3rd grade a couple of times. Memories! ;)

d
 

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samIam said:
Thanks, glad y'all got me past this. Hopefully gonna assemble the crank for the last time tonight after basketball practice(coaching 3rd grade). I've seen a few people mention using regular engine oil for assembly, is that the norm?


It works, but i wouldnt recommend it.

I think its fine for a place that assembles an engine in the morning and runs it in the afternoon on the dyno. But if its going to sit for any length of time, i feel safer with a thick lubricant on there that isnt going to wash away.

One thing is certain, most of the lubricant does wash away when you prime it. But i want that protection leading up to that point. It was weeks before i fired my engine after laying in the crank.
 

The Mad Cadder

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I use lubriplate assembly grease on the bearings .. pretty thin but it stays

Frank said most engines sit awhile before getting installed and if you
need to rotate it in the meantime you don't have to prime it first

P.S
Not sure if they still make it ..
 

8ad-f85

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Glad your line hone/crank issues were a simple solution!

As far as oil vs. lube;
1. Mine don't sit before running.
I don't hand over or ship an engine that hasn't run. If it's just a component, a coating of rust preventative or the machine's coolant will suffice.

2. I don't like any thickeners or anything that might prevent ring seating or something the oil pump or oil has to fight.
I've never seen problems just using oil, I've seen various problems using different lubes/greases. I don't see how it helps the operation of the engine.

3. Oil between 2 mating parts doesn't go anywhere, ie. ring grooves, bearings, valve guides, etc. A bit of oil on a cylinder doesn't run off leaving a dry piston.
Engines that are 50 years old still have the same oil in the bearing shells.

4. I worked for a major rebuilder and an OEM. I've seen thousands.
I do enough teardowns of the same engines to see the effects of things.

5. I'm not trying to sell lubes or have a parts selling business.

At the end of the day it's personal preference. Maybe if it's going to sit a long while....
 

dave brode

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You can find this stuff sold under various names. Red.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/perm ... embly+lube

Fwiw, Besides bearings, I also use it on rockers, p-rod ends etc. I mix it with a little oil and smear a little on piston skirts.

I use as little "moly" as possible [rod bolts main bolts etc], and I wipe off excess. Some experts claim that it's actually abrasive and hateful to soft bearings. I change the oil after cam break-in to get as much of it out as possible.

More fwiw: I prime engine on stand, then again right before start-up.

I mix this with the oil [shake with oil in half filled jug] http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-159

Some would recommend it on 2nd oil fill too. I have never done that, but I must admit to have had two flat tappet cams to be in bad enough condition so as to be deemed junk after two summers of running. Both were broken in properly.

Dave
 
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