Did it still have a tight spot after backing down the torque some?
Any shop rag lint, burrs or high spots behind the shells?
It only takes a little over .001" to find contact, a hair is nearly .003"
Where your caps are ground don't appear deburred.
Solvent and then compressed air should be the last things to touch the parts prior to oil.
Some brands of bearings in the last few years have been needing the backsides cleaned a bit better than normal.
I've found machining chips stuck to the backs from time to time, right in the packaging.
It's OK to very lightly hit the backsides of the bearings with fine stone or paper, but only to true up a high spot, burr or embedded particle.
Might want to measure the main's bores w/o the bearings and look for roundness.
Make sure and check where it corresponds to the contact to the bearings as well.
Caliper the bearing thickness where it makes contact in the front and towards the rear.
I would measure all over the crank and those bores.
If you do use a snap gauge, drag it all around on the same setting.
You're really going to need a dial bore gauge to see better. The inexpensive ones are fine.
Seems odd that you have contact on 4 of the 5 bearings, and only towards the front of each cap, except the front one.
The front one looks like something behind the shell.
You might have to ink them up for another go at it.
If it isn't an assembly problem then it appears there is taper from the hone job, crank grind, or both.
Both can easily happen and can be ongoing problems with either equipment or cutting unfamiliar blocks/cranks.
I'll comment on that IF found.
Is it possible the bearings hung up on a sharp edge left on the cap from the hone?
I'm also curious if they did both operations and if so, what specs they used?
Places dealing with performance know better than to simply "grind to -.010"" and "go nominal" on the bearing bores.
It's quite normal to use either to steer a clearance into the desired spec and should be discussed with the customer.