Discussion in 'Big Block Cadillacs' started by nosgood, Jul 10, 2017.
Are you sure you're not reversed on which rocker arm you're watching?
Gary, that had occurred to me, but that wasn't the issue. After writing my last post, I went back out and removed the timing cover from the engine. I had to see the timing set or I was going to go crazy! And, lo and behold, it was incorrectly installed. During assembly, I must not have set piston #1 to TDC, because it's definitely not that way now. When the dots are lined up at 6 and 12 o'clock on the timing set, the piston feels like it's at the bottom of it's stroke. The crank gear has three keyways, and I just didn't use the right one!
I'm afraid I don't even have any excuses for this one. It was a bone head move and I can tell you that it will never happen again. This weekend I'll rent a harmonic balancer puller and remedy the situation. I'll also need a new gasket for the timing cover. Once I get it put back together I think I'll have a running engine. I guess it goes to show that you can't be too careful.
If I remember when I set mine up the crank keyway ends up at the 7'oclock position with #1 at TDC and it is confusing.
Okay, so far so good. I got the timing cover off with no issues. The oil pump gave me some trouble just because it’s a tight fit to my crossmember. But I’m at the timing set now. I was hoping some of you had some recommendations for removal technique.
The only other time I’ve done this was on the 472 I removed from this car. The chain was so slack that I could slip the cam gear off and I used a three jaw puller to remove the crank sprocket. This, however, is a brand new chain and it’s nice and snug. I can’t be the first one to run into this!
Get something behind the gear on the crank and push it forward. That will enable you to get the upper gear past the cam gear.
The lower gear is a tight slip-on fit located by the keyway. Tight, but it should move.
I love clear pictures.
Okay, update time. I looked through my shop manual to see if they had any tips on timing chain removal. They simply say to “remove cam gear with chain still attached, and then use a three jaw puller to remove crank sprocket.” My timing chain simply does not have the slack to do this. The cam gear doesn’t clear the distributor drive gear. Coincidentally, I can’t get the puller onto the crank sprocket with the chain still there.
I went and grabbed my largest pry bar to try and just wiggle it forward enough to get the cam gear to clear everything. After pulling as hard as I could, it won’t budge even a little! I applied some penetrating oil to the sprocket in the hopes of loosening it up, but to no avail. This is a new gear put onto a clean crankshaft about a year ago, how can it be this tight?
Okay! 10 minutes later I solved it. I took one of the jaws off of the puller, put one of the remaing ones over the teeth of the sprocket and the other over the outside of the chain. After a few ginger turns of the screw, it started to slide loose and I was able to pull it off by hand. Now to put everything back together!
For the record, here is the timing set installed correctly: piston #1 at top dead center (crank key around 7 o’clock), cam gear marker pointed straight down, and crank sprocket marker pointed straight down.