Howdy all, been a minute since I posted last! I am in the process of fabricating my own headers for the Crosillac, and I noticed upon pulling off the passenger side exhaust manifold that I have a bit of coolant seeping from the forward bolt hole of cylinder #5. Is this something to be severely concerned with? Also have a bit seeping from around a couple of freeze plugs, even though we used Indian Head shellac when installing them, but I have some of the cooling system sealing tablets that GM throws in every brand new car on the assembly line so I think a couple of those should seal those leaks up within a few heat cycles. Anywho, here she sits at the moment. Photo attached.
The coolant leak, I would be concerned. I don't think it should be leaking but I confess I don't know much at all. PJ
Good news and bad news. The good news is that that bolt for the exhaust (front on #5) is a through bolt and is opened to the head bolt. That head bolt is a dry bolt that does not go into the water jacket. The bad news is that means that either the block or the head is cracked or the head gasket is very badly blown. Regardless of which you need to pull the head off and check. Sorry, but perhaps it is better now than after you try and start the motor. Greg Surfas
if it were me and I haven’t noticed coolant coming up missing or bubbling in the radiator I’d use the tablets or some other sealer first.
You guys might notice the state of completion of this project. I doubt that the motor has run yet, and this would be a very good time to find the source of the leak, be it cracks or gasket. Greg Surfas
DITTO what Greg said. Now, if the build is further along than the pictures show, other options would come into play. Best. bro. "hoping for you" d
It has been run, but only for a cumulative half an hour, roughly. Just enough to break in the cam, and sidle it across the street and back for a car show last May. During the cam break-in, at about 10 minutes of running the upper radiator hose blew off of the radiator bung and blasted coolant everywhere. I attributed it to not properly bleeding water past the thermostat and an air pocket forming in the block, then once the tstat finally opened it rushed out and overloaded the hose connection. Also found that my timing was quite a bit retarded (set to 8° advance) and I know now that they like/need a lot of timing advance to run cooler, so that probably didn't help. Second time around, the last ten minutes of cam break-in, I drilled a 1/16" weep hole in the thermostat flange to allow coolant past while filling, and left the radiator cap off for the first few minutes, until I knew the tstat had opened. Still started to creep up in temp, IIRC. Shortly thereafter I changed the radiator out - I had been using a two-row stock style radiator, ordered off RockAuto, said it was for the car it originally came out of ('74 Cad) - to a four-row aluminum rad with a 16" electric fan and shroud, meant to fit a 48-54 Chevy pickup but fits nicely in the Dodge framerails. I have run it for only a few minutes with this radiator, not long enough to let it get up to temp. The passenger side manifold, when I removed it, I did notice some discoloration and staining on the bottom of it around the #5 cylinder port area, but I attributed it to the coolant that got blown all over the engine when the hose let go - until I noticed the coolant seeping from the bolt hole...
Howdy Caddy Crosley, In the "for what it's worth" department I had a similar situation occur when my engine was on the break-in stand. Even with a newer radiator and a good electric fan the temperatures did creep up. I believe it was a timing issue as the vacuum advance wasn't connected. Do you have that connected on your engine? bro. d
I hope it was just residual coolant that was blasted in there. You can add compressed air via a fitting through the spark plug hole of the suspected cylinders with the pistons at TDC. If there is a cracked head or bad head gasket it will soon become apparent on where the compressed air comes out. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MIzfblj9mV6AIVEyCtBh2lQwvLEAQYASABEgLFg_D_BwE
Does that tool have the correct threads for the 472? I probably oughta go ahead and order one, if nothing else, just to have on hand.
I don't believe you have answered the question of whether or not it is still leaking out the bolt hole if there is a block full of water. Greg Surfas
Caddy Crosley That tool wont fit a caddy without an adapter. The caddy has deep treads that dont start at the front of the plug hole so you need one with long treads like the spark plugs have. Richard richie49
You are right, that particular fitting will probably not work on a caddy BB, I didn't do my research before posting there are better ones out there. If you have a welder and a cutting wheel, you can cut the threads off a sparkplug and weld it to the threads of the 1/4" air coupler. I think I will make me one of those. These are handy for replacing valve stem seals with the heads still on the car. The air pressure keeps the valve from dropping into the motor when you pull off the retainer and valve spring to remove the old crumbly valve stem seal.
Caddylackn I found that out the hard way and it was very anonying. I had a converted spark plug fitting That I found in my old tool box for unusual tools.I have no ideal where I got it but in came very usefull. Not welding was nessary.The porclen part was removed and a brass pipe (1/4 maybe) was screwed into with a air fitting on it. I'll post a pic when I look for it and hopefully find it.You probably know all about them dang tools moving around by themselves. Richard richie49
I have been saving and hoarding tools for over 35 years, the problem is I can no longer find the less used odd ball tools I squirreled away years ago when I need them now. I then end up buying another one. Of course you find the original tool later..........now I have two tools to try to store and will probably not find again later. I bet I own three brake line benders for that reason. I am at the point (bad combination of clutter and forgetfulness) that it is not worth even looking for the tool more than 10 minutes unless it costs more than $20 new. Hand tools are pretty cheap now, compared to what they were 35 years ago. With amazon, I just order another socket instead of tearing the garage apart looking for it.
