Some have accused Gessler of hiding hydraulics in the front suspension. He swears this isn’t the case. “It’s really just the by-product of a few modifications-loose Konis, Moroso front springs, removing the front sway bar, not over-tightening the control arm bushing bolts, and grinding off the serrations in the upper control arm bushings (which are stock rubber Moog replacement parts). Unfortunately, this setup also keeps the nose raised all the way down the track, catching a lot of air and hurting top-end mph.”
I did find the vid on p-bucket. So you cant really watch it. Essentially you see the car pull up to the line, and as he loads up the trans via footbrake the front end comes up slowly. Then the tree drops and he takes off. That's correct, the front comes up slowly before he moves. Which is why ppl accused him of using hydraulics.
Quick easy trick to free up some front end movement is to loosen the upper control arm nuts and double nut them so they don't disappear. I did that and when I put the drop spindles on greased all the factory bolts....made a big difference in the olds
Rob - The control arm bushings are pretty dried out- Im only going to be racing this last weekend before the truck goes back in the shop.
Bugzaper - the leafs in these trucks over all arent that stiff and I fear if i go to a single i will bend it - the Calvert Monoleafs they sell are extremely stiff - there are 3 springs in there now, its actually pretty soft on the road. but your right, having all three leafs could cause the axle to want to spring back after hitting the tire
If you run the 71-72 control arms, they are metal bushings. No resistance to travel at all. I think the 73-87 3/4 ton arms have the same type of bushing also.
Really, any 67-72 will have those bushings, but the 71-72 have the correct steering stops for your spindles. I have used the earlier ones with the later spindles and it worked fine.
If you were closer I'd give you a set of 68s. Most folks with those trucks are going to disc brakes and rob the entire front cradle from the 73+ and give away the early stuff
I didnt realize you have leafs.. can you swap them to a 4 link ..or factory tri angulated ? Or is there something made to keep the leaf from twisting excessively under torque
When assembling typical suspension bushings controll arms etc I always tighten the bushings at the point of travel that provides lift to the parts .. that way when the front end lifts the parts should help pull it up. Atleast they don't fight it
It might work?? The OD of the bushing is like a thread, sort of. It doesn't have much depth, kind of like a suggestion of a thread. I think it's just enough to swedge itself to the ID of the control arm bushing bore. I'll see if I can find one and take a picture.
The arms are pretty interchangable thru the years. I've put square body stuff on 67-70 trucks, and it works on the 66 and earlier also, back to 63-64ish when GM switched from torsion bar.
The control arm shaft OD and bushing ID are a normal looking thread, that's where all the movement happens. As long as it's greased and not worn out there's no deflection and the up/down movement is mostly free of friction.
Do a part search for the 3/4 ton version of your truck, I think the shaft/bushing is the metal type. Gives you more options for a junkyard score. They should interchange, may also check if the ball joints are the same, I bet they are. Good old GM...
You could run an adjustable "Pinon Snuber" like the Mopar guys do and limit the rotation of the housing. It would take a lot to snap a leaf spring, I actually don't ever remember seeing one break in 40 some years of drag racing. Need that torque transfer to happen as quick and complete as possible. Just a few ideas to play around with.
Also, maybe install ball-joint risers in the upper ball joints.