1957 F100 build thread?

5one9

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2007 Magnum SRT8, 1957 F100
F911 Brand Grade 9 bolt kit for a Caddy
 

5one9

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Cam bearings and freeze plugs installed
 

PSYKO_Inc

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66 Cadillac Miller-Meteor Duplex
Would you mind grabbing some photos of the port/bowl work compared to stock? Once I get my 500 swap ironed out and build up some more funds, I'm looking to do a cam and head work later on. I'd also be interested in the particular combination of valve springs, retainers, rockers, and machine work to the valve spring seats/guides/etc. Also could you elaborate on what you needed to do to the trans to handle 1k hp? I've done a lot of wrenching over the years, but never played around inside a transmission before, always just swapped the whole thing when one would go out.
 

5one9

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I can get some pics. Teardrop the guide in the bowl, raise the port roof at the entry, short turn radius smoothing, but mostly pushrod 'pinch' moved back significantly (about 0.080"). I'm using stock valves on this engine and I know that isn't the best for performance, but it will sure have less shrouding.
I'll use some sort of beehive spring/retainer combo but have yet to finalize that. Rockers are also a question at this point as I am wanting everything about this to be as cheap as possible and 'cheap Cadillac rockers' isn't the norm.

1973 Buick TH400 that I had laying around for 20 years was built by me with the following.
First I removed the 'switch pitch' parts and 4000/1400rpm converter.
1) Sonnax anti walk rear bushing
2) Sonnax rear roller bearing conversion set at 0.009”
3) Planetary shim kit set at 0.007”
4) Kevlar low reverse band
5) Four clutch Alto red intermediate with Kolene plates set to 0.035”
6) Replaced steel intermediate piston and plastic spring cup with aluminum piston and extra springs
7) 0.106” intermediate retainer ring
8) 5 clutch direct drum with Alto red and Kolene, set to 0.045” with dual feed mod and 34 element sprag
9) 5 clutch forward drum with Alto red and Kolene, set to 0.045” with ATI input shaft
10) forward clearance set to 0.012”
11) pump modified with converter restrictor and high 185psi relief spring
12) B&M/Transgo shift kit
13) stainless screen filter
14) Alto red direct band
15) direct band piston modification
16) adjustable modulator
17) B&M high rpm governor kit
18) all new bushings and seals
19) TCI 9.5” 2500rpm converter w/ anti-balloon plates
20) SFI flexplate
21) Finned aluminum pan
22) Sonnax rear yoke
 

5one9

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It also has a 1200hp rated input shaft/drum
 

PSYKO_Inc

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Awesome, thanks for the info! Guess I need to do some reading now, since some of that info is a little over my head. I've got a complete '69-ish Pontiac th400 in the garage that I'm planning on pulling apart and rebuilding, and then swapping into the Caddy once it's complete. Since it's apart anyway, might as well put some good stuff in it.
 

PJ McCoy

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Would you mind grabbing some photos of the port/bowl work compared to stock? Once I get my 500 swap ironed out and build up some more funds, I'm looking to do a cam and head work later on. I'd also be interested in the particular combination of valve springs, retainers, rockers, and machine work to the valve spring seats/guides/etc. Also could you elaborate on what you needed to do to the trans to handle 1k hp? I've done a lot of wrenching over the years, but never played around inside a transmission before, always just swapped the whole thing when one would go out.
The trans is a lot easier than you would think. tear into it. After that, get a book on the Th400. You will be amazed at what you can do.
 

5one9

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Ok I bought a set of $318 Speedmaster roller rockers. Geometry looks weird but it moves from 1/3 point closed, to 1/2 point at 0.250” lift, back to 1/3 point at 0.509” lift which is what I’ll have with the lame 1.60:1 ratio. Truthfully the stock valve ported ‘75 heads won’t flow well past 0.500” anyway. I got lucky after taking measurements and got a new set of chromoly Comp Cams 3/8” x 10.350” pushrods for $73. I picked up the crank from the machine shop yesterday and that will be the only machine work needed........I’m thinking anyway. Really the only thing left to buy is to find a good used Edelbrock intake. Or maybe just port the stocker.

I have a couple of small TH400 parts to buy and I’ll be ready to install.

I’m seriously considering buying front springs and moving toward the gasser look instead of the Mustang II front end. What do you guys think?
 

Caddylackn

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I'd port the stocker, but keep your eye out for a used Edelbrock. The amount of gains per $ spent on a new Edelbrock vs. a ported stock manifold is pretty low unless you are going over 5,000 rpms.
Did the Speedmaster rockers require the 0.050 longer pushrods?
 

5one9

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I'd port the stocker, but keep your eye out for a used Edelbrock. The amount of gains per $ spent on a new Edelbrock vs. a ported stock manifold is pretty low unless you are going over 5,000 rpms.
Did the Speedmaster rockers require the 0.050 longer pushrods?

0.150”. Yes.
 

5one9

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My cam has a smaller base circle too. Probably 0.050” smaller.
 

Caddylackn

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Can you tell me what the diameter of your cam base circle is? I bought a used cam and I think it is reduced base circle and I need to check. Or if you can tell me the base circle diameter of your stock cam, that would help too.

thanks,
 

5one9

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Can you tell me what the diameter of your cam base circle is? I bought a used cam and I think it is reduced base circle and I need to check. Or if you can tell me the base circle diameter of your stock cam, that would help too.

thanks,
Stock '75 is 1.173" on all lobes
Stock '73 is 1.185" on I believe the intakes, and 1.200" on the opposite lobes
My CMD is 1.100" on all lobes
My roller cam is smaller, but I don't remember the size
 

5one9

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I got the 0.010"/0.010" newly turned crank in last night. Stock main bolts. I had ARP bolts put in the stock rods. Installed the cam which is a 107 LSA. It went in at 102 ICL and I'll just leave it right there. I went ahead and gapped the 0.060" 454 moly rings to 0.018" top, 0.020" middle, and put the stock oil rings back in the number 1 cylinder to degree the cam. That piston is only 0.006" below the deck. I assume that is stock, but I assure you I am both surprised and happy with that figure. I'll get the rest of the short block together this week.
 

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5one9
If you dont have the eldebrock intake you can port out the stocker.I used a 1968 or 9 intake that had the chanel to heat up the carb.I tapped threads in the holes ,plugged them and filled the channel with JB weld. Then I cut out the four holes till it looked like the eldebrock.Cut the center divider down a 1/2 inch and radiadus the lips going into the runners. I dont know if it's anywhere like the eldrebrock in performance but it runs really good with it ported. The engine is stock except the mts 15 cam,1.7 rockers and ported intake. I just got back from a test run and for the heck of it I stopped at the corner and layed down about 50-60 feet of rubber with my posi. I have pics somewhere that I can't find of the intake to show you,still looking. (And no I didn't think to try to record the smoke cloud :()
Richard richie49
 

5one9

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5one9
If you dont have the eldebrock intake you can port out the stocker.I used a 1968 or 9 intake that had the chanel to heat up the carb.I tapped threads in the holes ,plugged them and filled the channel with JB weld. Then I cut out the four holes till it looked like the eldebrock.Cut the center divider down a 1/2 inch and radiadus the lips going into the runners. I dont know if it's anywhere like the eldrebrock in performance but it runs really good with it ported. The engine is stock except the mts 15 cam,1.7 rockers and ported intake. I just got back from a test run and for the heck of it I stopped at the corner and layed down about 50-60 feet of rubber with my posi. I have pics somewhere that I can't find of the intake to show you,still looking. (And no I didn't think to try to record the smoke cloud :()
Richard richie49

Unrecorded smoke clouds are still good!
 

PSYKO_Inc

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I'm really curious to hear what you think of those rockers once the motor is up and running. The price is great, but I haven't been able to find any legit reviews on them, which seemed a little sketchy.
 

5one9

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The are made overkill. The bodies are large. They have wide dual Torrington bearings. The roller tip is installed well with the ends substantially peened. The adjuster is large and made just like my Harland Sharps. The oil hole goes all the way through from the adjuster to a hole pointing at the spring passing over top of the center of the two bearings. The rocker stands are good and substantial and require drilling and pinning for alignment. The drill bit and pins are included. No instructions, which isn’t a big deal to me. The hole pointing at the spring is larger than it needs to be and I may bush it. The 1.60:1 ratio sucks. I believe that stock pushrods would work with a stock base circle cam. I’m not disappointed at all but they clearly aren’t Harland Sharps or T&D Machine rockers........and they are 1/3 the cost if you wait around and catch them on sale which I did for $318 instead of $466. I already described the geometry earlier as acceptable. I expect zero issues from them.
 

PSYKO_Inc

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Awesome, thanks for the details! Sounds like the ratio is the only downside. $500-600 for the cheapest CadCo/CHP arms was going to be a tough pill to swallow. At half the price with ~90% effectiveness, I think these might be a winner. Could always go a little higher lift on the cam grind to make up for the ratio (assuming that it doesn't bind.) Wonder what the theoretical rpm limit of these would be?

Edited to add: Do they clear stock valve covers?
 

5one9

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I don't know about the RPM limit, but they'll need to go about 5000 on mine and they'll surely have no problem with that. No, they will not clear stock rockers. Fortunately I have my homeboy custom reversed stock covers and they will work just fine.
IMG_2608.JPG
 
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